Moroccan Meanderings

A great video of Marrakesh

2011-02-21T01:41:00.000Z

Agadir

2011-02-05T11:49:00.002Z

Agadir is a modern tourist town without the walled old city that typifies Moroccan towns due to an earthquake int eh 1960s that destroyed much of Agadir. The beach is the attraction for many, made even more attractive by the promenade that runs along side. Other attractions are the souq with its pile of fresh fruit and vegetables, the kasbah and the fish market. The latter two attractions are featured in previous posts.

Agadir - the kasbah

2011-02-05T11:44:00.003Z

From Agadir's crumbling kasbah, there are excellent views across the harbour, beach and town especially if the weather is clear.

Agadir - fish market

2011-02-05T11:39:00.002Z

Not only is the fish market in Agadir a great place to buy fish, it is also a great place to eat them at the semi-outdoor stalls where the fish is freshly barbequed.

The boats used to catch some of the fish.

Eating and sleeping in Taroudant

2011-01-29T01:12:00.005Z

Eating in Taroudant

I tried out three different places in Taroundant: Jnane Soussia, Chez Nada and L'Agence with the latter being my favourite. Jnane Soussia was a nice setting in tents around a pool but the tagine I had was ordinary. At Chez Nada the food was fine and it is in a very central location but I liked the food and decor best at L'Agence as it was slightly out of the ordinary. Plus the restaurant was centrally located - close to the main mosque. Here are some photos of L'Agence:

Sleeping in Taroudant

As I was looking at the cheaper end of the spectrum, I chose to stay at Riad Palmiers de Taroudant. It is a converted convent and has a central courtyard full of trees, flowers and a fish pond. The rooms are comfortable but there are shared bathrooms, although plenty of them. The breakfast served on the verandah is great (see the photo below). Plus it is easy to find and can be readily accesses by car. Plus any profit goes to support the adjoining orphanage. Here are some photos:

The entrance

The courtyard & verandah

A room

Breakfast is served

Taroudant

2011-01-29T00:47:00.006Z

Located east of Agadir and south across the High Atlas Mountains from Marrakesh, Taroudant is a very traditional Moroccan town of a large walled-in medina with a kasbah in one corner. In the distance are the snow-capped peaks of the High Atlas Mountains, which can be crossed via Tizi'n'Test from Marrakesh. Unusually for Moroccan towns, there is no Ville Nouvelle or New Town area as the French were never interested in Taroudant. Here are some photos:

Taroudant with the snow-capped Atlas Mountains in the background

A typical Taroudant building

In the carpet shop

Caleche are a common form of transport in Taroudant

Kasbah and its walls in Taroudant

Minaret outside the kasbah

Pierre, the stone carver

An example of his work

Movies in Morocco

2011-01-29T00:15:00.003Z

Having just recently watched "Prince of Persia - the sands of time" much of which was filmed in Morocco and clearly recognised as so, it was interesting to read that "Salmon Fishing in Yemen" was also partially filmed there.

Read about the filming here.

This was a book I enjoyed reading and I look forward to the proposed release of the movie at the end of 2011. Here is more information about the book.

Morocco article published

2010-09-18T12:43:00.002Z

I've just had a new article published in The Australian newspaper about the Earth Cafe in Marrakesh.

See it here.

My friend's new hotel

2009-08-22T01:44:00.005Z

During the break I got to spend time in my friend's new hotel - Jnane Toubkal, near Imlil. It has stunning views up and down the valley including Berber villages, town of Imlil and is topped by the pyramid-shaped peak of Mt Toubkal, after which it is named. These views can be seen through the windows or from one of the four terraces. Presently there are four ensuite rooms plus one room with a shard bathroom and a dormitory room with mattresses on the floor. The entire hotel follows a Berber theme from be constructed in traditional way to the use of wrought iron on the windows, wooden furniture and doors carved with Berber symbols and zellij tiling. These is also a restaurant serving traditional food. It is a place in which it is easy to relax or alternatively use it as a base for hiking in the mountains. Here are some photos.

The Moroccan lounge

The hotel last Winter

View through one of the hotel windows

The yellow room containing two double beds

Ceiling in the lounge between the two upstairs bedrooms

The mauve twin room

One of the terraces and the view from it

An exterior window under the shade of a walnut tree

One of the ensuite bathrooms

Bathroom tiling detail - each is an individual tile

In the mountains

2009-08-22T01:26:00.005Z

Well I did manage to escape the heat of Marrakesh for a few days by heading into the mountain. It was certainly cooler, much quieter and very relaxing. Here are a few photos.

Looking towards Imlil at sunset

Trekkers on the other side of the valley - can you see them?

Trekkers passing by

Weekend picnics in Imlil

Playing in the water, Imlil

Looking down the Mizane Valey

Back to Bangladesh

2009-08-12T15:17:00.003Z

Well it is time to say goodbye to Morocco once again. Presently I am about to catch the train from Marrakesh to Casablanca where I have to overnight before catching a morning flight back to Dhaka, via Doha. Once back there I will try and post a couple of entries about my time out in the mountains, a respite from the heat of Marrakesh.

Things I have enjoyed:
- visiting southern Spain especially the Alhambra
- spending time in Tangier - it is worth visiting
- catching up with friends in Rabat
- managing to get some work done on my second job - writing and photography, including getting A$300 for the sale of one photo!!!
- chilling in the mountains

As for Dhaka, I don't look forward to the monsoon rains and high humidity, the pollution or the crazy traffic, but no doubt it will all become routine once again as I settle back in. At least I going back to the same apartment with its nice views.

Windy, windy Essaouira

2009-07-20T16:31:00.002Z

Well for a change from the heat of Marrakesh, I decided to head to the coast for a few days. First idea was Mirleft, then Agadir but I didn't expect to like it but ended up going back to Essaouira! And what a change it was - can you believe it I was cold, for the first time in months and months! It was so WINDY, at times I felt like I was being sand-blasted, even in the alleys of the medina. I even took long sleeves to wear but that wasn't enough. It certainly was a change. Plus the normally blue sea was a murky brown dotted by white-caps courtesy of the wind!!! The to top it off it is 44 degrees here in Marrakesh today with no sun.

Anyway I did have nice food including grilled fish, avacado and prawn salad (I can't get avocados in Bangladesh) and my favourite meat tagine with raisins and caramelised onions. Mind you, the food prices seemed cheaper than in Marrakesh. Stayed at the same place I stayed at in December - Hotel Les Maison Bleus, a comfortable and central place with lovely hosts, one of whom remembered me, even if he could not spell my name!

Of course I took lots of phots, here are a few people ones.

Tangier

2009-07-15T14:38:00.003Z

Initially I passed through Tangier on my way to Spain after catching the train from Rabat. On arrival at Tangier Ville train station, I immediately got accosted by taxi drivers who wanted to charge me 50 dirhams for the ride to the port. I offered 20 and they refused so I went and joined the mostly locals on the street corner out the front!! Eventually after about 20 minutes I finally got a taxi to the port and when I put 20 dirhams in the driver’s hand once I got out, he didn’t argue. You can also walk, which take about 45 minutes. Head straight for the sea and once on the beach street, turn left and it will take you straight to the port.

On my return to Tangier, my initial plan was to take a train to Rabat. I thought to avoid the exorbitant prices charged by taxi drivers at the port, I would walk out to the entrance and catch a taxi there but had no success and ended up walking all the way to the station. Again just follow the street from the port (Ave Mohammed VI) until you get to McDonalds, which is about 3 kilometres, and turn right. The Tangier Ville train station is directly ahead. As I arrived at the station the train I was supposed to be on was just pulling out. Later trains did just not work out, so I reverted to my original plan of spending a couple of nights in Tangier to se what it was like.

Got a taxi as m feet were sore and blistered from all the walking in new sandals to the Hotel Continental, a piece of Tangier history. There I got a single room with port views and a/c for 526 dirham per night, including breakfast. It is a really fascinating hotel that dates from the early 1900s and was the first hotel in Tangier. As a result it is decorated with lots of antiques and memorabilia on the walls, in the hallways, in the common areas and even in the rooms. It has a large balcony with views across the port that is a pleasant place to sit in the evenings and enjoy a drink, the breeze and the views. But it doesn’t serve alcohol, so my drink of preference is fresh orange juice.

Next day I headed off to the Kasbah and of course got accosted by an unofficial guide who took me all around the Kasbah and said “a Frenchman owns this, English own this . . . . .”. Unfortunately the Kasbah museum is closed on a Tuesday and I didn’t make it back! Then went to the Phoenician Tombs, rectangular holes in a huge rock but with stunning views across the Mediterranean to Spain.

These are close to Café Hafa, which has certainly had its dy but is still a pleasant spot to have a cold drink or mint tea and enjoy the views in peaceful surroundings. As for the “guide”, he was not happy with his tip of 100 dirhams but after I stressed the unofficial part he left! Unofficial guides can actually be arrested, fined or even imprisoned in Morocco.

A restaurant I found and went to a couple of times especially as I didn’t feel out of place as a single female was les Passagers de Tanger on the 2nd floor overlooking Grand Socco. Great value was its meal of the day for 110 dirham where I had fish soup, filleted sardines sandwiched together with pesto and served with rice and stir-fried vegetables with dessert being orange and grapefruit slices served with icecream. Alcohol is also available with Heineken beer 40 dirhams and a glass of red wine 25. The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor tables and was excellent value remembering that restaurants that serve alcohol tend to be much more expensive than those that don’t.

Also I visited the American Legation Museum, which I found fascinating. Lots of prints of Moroccan towns including Tangier from the 1500s onwards, old maps of North Africa and the Mediterranean region, some interesting paintings, examples of damascine and even a picture of Moulay Ismail. There is also a Paul Bowles room with lots of photos of him and other well-known people plus copies of his books. Located in two traditional riad-type buildings, they also have some Morocco-related books for sale.

I found the nearby Lorin Museum to be not worth a visit as it contained a series of old black and white photos, many of which were unlabelled. However, I did find St Andrew’s Church fascinating as it merges Moorish architecture, Moroccan features, Arabic writing with traditional Christian features. The Lord’s Prayer in Arabic plus lots of arches, niches and stucco plus being situated directly next to a mosque show this The caretaker who lives in a nearby cottage has to unlock the church for visitors to see inside.

Overall I found Tangier is worth at least a full day and I was hassled very little. Mind you, I saw people in the large tour groups that were being herded through the medina by a guide, being heavily hassled by the touts and hustlers but as long as you dress conservatively, avoid eye contact with the men and look like you know where you are going, then the problems should be less.

Seville - Part 2

2009-07-15T14:27:00.004Z

Continuing on the comparison between Granada and Seville, although the Alhambra was the most spectacular of the sights I saw, Seville had a more relaxed feel to it. Narrow alleys in the old part of town lined with colourfully painted two-storey houses that shade the alleys that are frequently lined by tables from the cafes scattered throughout. It was fun just wandering around, finding hidden squares and watching the world go by. Obviously Saturday is wedding day in Seville as sitting at a café in a square with a fountain in the middle, not did just one bride and groom appear with trailing photographers but more likely six, as soon as one group left another would appear! Photogenic – no doubt about that.

Unlike the cathedral, I did find the Alcazar worth the 8 euro entry fee. It was a conglomeration of Moorish and Christian architecture. Dating back to 700, it has been the home of the Moorish chiefs and the residence of the Spanish monarchs, it has stunning architecture covering styles over hundreds of years.
For example “ Each wall in the Hall of Justice has a decorative structure comprising three recessed arches adorned with traditional Moorish plasterwork showing schematic plants, epigraphs and heraldic coats of arms. The ceiling is adorned with wooden lattice work.”

“Four marble arches on one end of Levi’s Courtyard, look across a rectangular pool with three water lilies aligned down the centre and home to goldfish. There is a hedge on either side with a wall fountain at the end, surrounded by variegated and green ivy with the smell of jasmine pervading the air.”
The Tapestry Room

There are many other monuments in Seville, that I unfortunately didn’t have time to visit but it is also expensive as they charge high entry fees. I would happily return especially to the hotel I stayed at – Hotel Europa. Decorated with antiques, it is full of character, comfortable while also being centrally located and easy to find. I also acquired a taste for Sangria, no doubt helped by the fact that the iceblocks made it a very refreshing drink in the heat.

Seville - Part 1

2009-07-15T14:15:00.003Z

For me, the one attraction that drew me to Seville was the Giralda minaret turned bell tower in the cathedral. Having already spent so much time in Morocco and having seen both Tour Hassan in Rabat and Kotoubia Mosque in Marrakesh, I wanted to see the third in the trio of minarets built by the Almohad Sultan Yacoub el-Mansour in the 12th century. Kotoubia was the prototype, Tour Hassan was unfinished due to el-Mansour’s death and the Giralda got recycled!
Here are photos of the 3 minarets. Can you tell which is which??

The mosque and minaret may be no more in Seville, but the past use is still very evident today. The minaret shape cannot be camouflaged, while many of the adornments remain although the arch-shaped decoration, have now become windows with a bell tower being added to the top. One interesting option after paying the hefty entry fee of 8 euros, was to walk up the ramp to the top of the bell tower/minaret from where there was excellent views across Seville. As with Tour Hassan, a ramp rather than steps was used to give access to the top so that the caller of the muezzin could ride his horse to the top for the required 5 times a day! The back exterior of the cathedral also clearly showed that it was once a mosque with the austere plain walls in a basic block shape. Many additions had been made to the building – the front and above to turn it into a cathedral although I must say that I didn’t find the interior particularly inspiring, more a waste of money when compared to the cathedral in Granada.

2009-07-07T16:09:00.004Z

Granada and its graffiti

The main reason to go to Granada is to visit the Alhambra and it was certainly worthwhile as I needed up spending a whole day there. I bought my ticket online prior to visiting for 14 euros then collected it on arrival from a ticket machine. It was an afternoon ticket, which meant I could only enter the Alcazaba and Palace of the Goodlife after 2 pm and my entry to the Palaces of Nasrid was at 2 pm precisely. After the steep climb up the Alhambra, as it is on a promontory overlooking Granada and its surrounds, I then spent the next few hours looking around the “free” part. This included the Palace of Carlos V, which was built in 1492 after the Catholics took over, and the nearby church both of which were newer and constructed during the Christian era of the complex. Stone lion faces with rings through their noses decorated the Palace Carlos V, which was basically just a square block but had a nice circular courtyard inside. Nearby and much older from the Muslim era was the remains of a Hammam or traditional bath house. The remains of one bath could be seen with some blue and white tiles still attached. There were nice gardens in between with blooming roses in many colours under the shade of some larger trees. A climbing plant with purple flowers also hung down covering some of the shaded walls.

However it was the Palaces of Nasrid that is the real attraction. They date from the 13th and 14th centuries when the Moors and Islam ruled southern Spain, hence it has many of the same features of buildings seen in Morocco. It is a rambling mass of palaces, courtyards, balconies . . . . . . With pools, fountains, climbing plants and hedges in the courtyards, often with a portico at one end with a series of arches looking towards the courtyard.

Very attractive, very serene and very relaxing. It is so easy just to sit by and relax, as long as you could get out of the hot sun (it was high 30s). Inside the buildings was where the major decoration occurred. In fact it reminded me of the slowly disintegrating Glaoui palace at Telouet in Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains. Mosaic tiling in greens, blue, black, white and mustard is geometric designs covered the lower metre and a half of the walls.
Higher was carved stucco or plasterwork with a mixture of symbolic representations of plants, calligraphy symbols and geometric designs including lines and shapes. Sometimes this is used as borders, at other times it will be the top metre and a half on walls, often with arch shapes incorporating different patterns.
Then there was the wood ceilings, either with intricately painted designs painted on the wood or with wood pieces fitted together to form geometric design on the roof. When looking at this it has to be remembered that Islam forbids the depiction of human or animal figures, hence the extensive use of geometric designs. Outside were more reflection pools surrounded by designed and manicured gardens with meandering paths, often with hedged borders forming triangle or square or semi-circular shaped mini gardens. More flowers, in addition to roses there was blue plumbago cascading down a wall, palm trees towering above a pool, citrus trees, the smelly flowering privet, pencil pines lining walkways, lavender, jasmine - so all very pretty, especially when the twinkling of water from fountains are interspersed regularly.

The huge park areas around the Alhambra including the large trees are actually irrigated with huge sprinklers to keep them green, unlike the surrounding countryside which is very brown, just like southern Australia in Summer. The Nasrid Palace and surrounding medina was home to the noblemen and their families, the Alcazaba was the military garrison and the Generalife was the palace and garden area in which the Granadian kings relaxed. The entire complex is surrounded by high earthen ramparts with many watch towers interspersed. This sets it up as an ideal fortress.

The Generalife Palace

Granada also had a HUGE cathedral that was quite spectacular inside, an interesting archeological museum, lots more churches and lots of outdoor cafes to sit at in the evening as the temperature slowly cooled. I couldn’t believe how many icecream shops there were - not sure what happens to them in Winter!

From Rabat to Granada

2009-07-07T09:13:00.003Z

From Rabat to Tangier it was about a 5 hour trip with no changes of train, arriving about 1 pm. Then came the saga of getting a taxi from the train station to the port. Of course a tout approached me and said 50 dirhams to the port in a Grand Taxi but I told him I wanted a petit taxi so I joined all the locals out on the street corner in front of the station. No lines or order of any form here, but instead it is all for oneself. Some taxis that already have one passenger in stop to see if anyone else is going in the same direction. Eventually I got one on my own to the port and the driver gave me a guided tour of Tangier (in French) as we drove along - the Grand Socco is up there, the Kasbah there and that is the Hotel Continental . . . . . . And most surprising of all is that I understood most of what he was saying! On arrival at the port I gave him 20 dirhams, which was how much I wanted to pay and since he was busy negotiating with a couple of potential passengers he only looked when I put in in his hand and didn’t argue!

A simple task to get the ticket - I got a return one for 760 dirham as that got a 10% discount. Then through immigration to line up next to the ferry to get on. While waiting I meth this American guy, who had also got on the train in Rabat, and talked to him while on the ferry trip. He is a post graduate student who had been awarded a fellowship to come to Morocco for one month and study Arabic, while the weekends were spend sightseeing around Morocco - the desert, Fes, Marrakesh etc. leaving about 2.15, the ferry crossing was smooth with blue seas and blue skies but because of the one hour time change it arrived in Tarifa at almost 4. It is theoretically a 35 min crossing.

I spent the night in Tarifa staying at Hotel/Pension Focunda where I got a room for 30 euros walking in off the street, which was cheaper than normal price. My room had an attached bathroom but most in the hotel had shared facilities. It had a very central location. I couldn’t believe how touristy Tarifa now is, but it is probably 3 years since I last passed through there. Every third shop seems to be a kite surfing shop offering lessons and gear. Plus lots of cafes and other shops but the town has a nice relaxing feel about it and the old part is fun to explore.

Leaving Tarifa early next morning, I caught the 8 am public bus to Algeciras, then a 12 noon train from there to Granada. The bus trip from Tarifa only took about 30 min, past the wind turbines and even through the clouds for a short while. I had a wander around Algeciras as had plenty of time - the port there is huge!!

The train trip to Granada took 4.5 hours and can be divided into two halves: the first half to Ronda and the second half to Granada. Most of the first half involved winding through the mountains, through at least 10 tunnels, past flowing mountain streams bordered by baby pink and crimson flowering oleander, through villages with two storey white-washed houses with tiled roofs and stopping at small stations where there buildings were always white with mustard trim.

Every station was clearly signposted and sometimes we had to wait for another train, with names such as Gaucin, Cortes de la Frontera, Jimera de Libar and Benaojan. There was a couple of structures we travelled over that I would call a cross between a tunnel and a bridge - closed in on one side and the roof, the other side was semi-open with archhways looking out across the scenery. We past a few cork trees, where all the lower bark had been removed (to make cork) revealing a dark tan layer underneath unlike the rough grey bark above. There were also many gum trees, some with pale yellow flowers. A very scenic section of the trip.

Ronda I had visited previously, a lovely white village but the train takes about 30 minutes to wind up to the plateau on which Ronda is found. Leaving Ronda and almost all the way to Granada, the rolling hills were home to thousands of olive trees: olives in rows, olives in grids, single olive trees, clumps of three olive trees, recently planted olive trees - they just went on and on. Now I can see why the production of olive oill is such a big industry for Spain. Mind you in the stony, dry, sandy soil I am not sure they could grow anything else anyway!

After a very pleasant train trip, I finally arrived in Granada where the next saga was to find the hotel I had booked. That is an another story The train was very comfortable, air-conditioned, fast but no food or drink was available on the train. A highly recommended train trip and it cost just under 20 euros.

Back in Morocco - Marrakesh medina again

2009-06-23T11:29:00.006Z

I spent yesterday in the medina, wandering around taking photos and also writing down some detailed notes in case I need them for a future article. After a salad of smoked salmon and avocado and yoghurt, the heat drove me away, to cooler places. Here is a brief look at some of the colour.

Locals in the square

A basket seller

Forms of local transport

Orange juice stands in the main square

Lots of recently dyed hanks of wool were hanging over doorways - so much colour

Return to Morocco

2009-06-16T13:15:00.003Z

Only a few more days and I'll be back on my way to Morocco. Time to catch up with some friends and hopefully take a side trip to southern Spain.

What am I looking forward to:
1. tagines
2. dried fruit
3. catching up with friends
4. weather that is not humid
5. a reliable train service
6. taking lots of photographs
7. chilling out and reading books
8. doing some writing

Hopefully I'll manage a few posts while I am there to show you what I am doing!

Rediscovered Morocco photos

2009-05-22T02:13:00.006Z

As I brought my film scanner back with me from Australia, I have been busy scanning some of the many slides I have with me. (There are lots more stored in Australia though!!) As a result I have discovered a few forgotten Morocco photos that I took during my time living there. Here is a sample:

The dunes of Erg Chigaga

Countryside near Fes

Chefchaouen alley

Cafe Bouganinvillea in Marrakesh
Ben Youssef Medersa in Marrakesh (not sure about the colour of this photo though!!)

It's a small world

2009-05-08T02:33:00.003Z

While I was in Australia, on my last evening in Melbourne I went to see the musical "Billy Elliot" at the insistence of my nephew who really wanted to see it. Talking to the lady sitting next to me who also happened to be visiting Melbourne and was from Alice Springs. When I happened to mention that I had lived in Morocco she then proceeded to tell me about her friend who had just got back from competing in the Marathon des Sables in Morocco.

For those who don't know, this ultra-marathon is a 6-day, 243 kilometre, endurance race through the Moroccan edge of the Sahara Desert. This year it ran from March 27th to April 6th. Not only are competitors expected to run up sand dunes across stone littered plains being pounded by the hot African sun, but they are expected to carry to their own food, sleeping gear and emergency equipmenton their backs while running. The runners also have water rationed out, about 1.5 litres per stage (not per day).

Hard as it is to believe, 770 people completed the race this year, with not surprisingly two Moroccans filling the first and second place. Only 800 are allowed to participate and hard as it is to believe, there is a waiting list!!!

Back to the Australian connection. Even after training in the Australian desert, my new friend's friend still found it incredibly difficult and the hardest thing he has ever done.

That's Morocco for you!

Here's a video to give you some idea!!

Back again

2009-05-02T06:07:00.002Z

Well I have booked my ticket to go back to Morocco and visit yet again. June 20th is the day I arrive and I am really looking forward to it, in part because it means there is only 7 weeks of work left before holidays. As a lot of people at work are moving on, it also means that it is only 7 weeks until I say goodbye to them! However, back in Morocco I will have the opportunity to catch up with friends there, do some sightseeing, rest and relax, hopefully take a trip to Spain, and I'm not sure what else. The main thing is that I have a ticket booked and I'm off.

I have recently become a Morocco Destination Expert on the Trip Advisor forum, so that keeps me well and truly in touch with and up to date with what is happening in Morocco. So Marrakesh and . . . . . . , her I come.

Another published article: High Atlas hiking

2009-02-14T02:43:00.003Z

This weekend, an article I wrote about hiking in the High Atlas Mountains has been published in "The Weekend Australian" newspaper. It also has a really cute illustration to accompany it.
Here is the link.

Enjoy and feel free to comment.

My new project . . .. .

2009-02-13T14:16:00.002Z

My new project that I have started on today is to try and make some money from my photographs via joining a website that enables people to order online cards, calendars, prints, framed photos and canvas prints of my photos. It is through a site called redbubble that is actually based in Melbourne. Search for heatherf and you will find what photo I have put up so far, not many yet but I have to be selective so that I only put the best up. The other problem I have that is any I took on my old, small digital camera are only available as cards or matt prints becasue of the size/number of pixels. I am also going to try and put a link on the side of my blog, but it takes me a while as I have to paste in html code for that.

Enjoy and feel free to tell me what you think.

Prize-winning review

2009-02-04T11:53:00.003Z

Take a look here at my prize-winning restaurant review on the Lonely Planet website. The restaurant: the food stalls of the Djemma el'Fna in Marrakesh. Go down to member reviews and it is the titled "Cheap and Tasty", which is the only one at the moment.

Here's a picture to go with it:
This is the set up stage, maybe that is obvious!

My desert jinx

2009-01-08T08:54:00.003Z

Again I tried to go to the desert, this time for New Year's Eve, and again my desert jinx surfaced. Last time it was a sandstorm that stopped my nephews and myself spending the night in the desert. This time it was rain! Mind you I did get to ride a camel into the desert ( in the rain) and I did get to spend the night in a tent in the desert, but listened to the pitter patter of rain drops of the hessian as the water pooled above. Thank goodness the hessian had plastic below so I remained dry inside but it didn't help that I had wet jeans to sit and sleep in. So no campfire and no starry sky for New Year's Eve, but I survived.

Instead got up in the morning; the rain had stopped but the clouds interfered with the sunrise.

Although some people staying there were happy to greet the New Year.

Then it was time to get back on that noisy camel of mine The one that didn't like being at the end of the line, but had no choice.

It was a pleasant camel ride back to the auberge without the rain. On the way we saw a number of camel trains heading out to pick up large groups from their overnight camp.

As we neared the auberge there was lots of evidence of the recent rains (not just the previous night) as the lake was much larger than when I visited 9 months ago with my nephews. Then to top it off, we got stuck in the mud when driving out!

Just my luck, after breakfast at the auberge, I walk outside to be greeted by blue skies and sunshine!!Maybe it is thrid time lucky for my desert trip.

Fes on Al Jazeera

2009-01-07T12:43:00.002Z

Recently on Al Jazeera was a BBC TV show on the street food of Fes, that featured Lahcen Beqqi with whom I did a cooking class in Fes a year or so ago. Here it is:

Telouet interior

2009-01-07T12:27:00.003Z

On my way to the desert, I visited Telouet and the ruins of the Glaoui kasbah yet again, not that it is a hardship. It is an absolutely beautiful building, especially some of the interiors but with the exterior walls earthen it gradually decaying. Each time I visit (and this is the third) there is less and less of the minaret standing. So sad. Anyway my new camera took much better photos of the interior than my previous cameras had so maybe you will appreciate the beauty too.

Inside the pasha's section are beautifully carved wood that looks like the carved plasterwork commonly seen today (see the photo below), plus beautifully painted wood both on the ceiling and walls. And of course zellij and attractive wrought iron window grilles.

But what will happen to it? Apparently the people of the village have realised its value in attracting tourists and providing a source of income so they are looking at restoring it somehow. However, it is complicated by the fact that nobody is sure who owns it. Is it still the Glaouis? The ownership papers seemed to have disappeared so the saga will no doubt continue for a long time yet.

Djemma el'Fna at night

2009-01-07T11:02:00.004Z

Given the opportunity, one evening I decided that I would go and try out my new camera at night, specifically to try and capture the action and atmosphere of the Djemma el'Fna. This has been the main square in Marrakesh for many hundreds of years: a meeting place, a place of entertainment and a dining room with a ceiling of stars. There are snakes and monkeys, entertainers, fortune tellers, henna-painting ladies, storytellers, the range juice and dried fruit stands and the plethora of smoke-producing food stalls that roll out in the late afternoon.

Here are my photos:

These are the food stalls.

Snails anyone???

This is the minaret of the Koutoubia mosque that is close to the square.

Here is a light illuminating the mosque walls.

How did the camera go? Well I thought the photos weren't too bad considering that I just turned off the flash and clicked away. I didn't even try it on the night time setting - only realised that after I had finished! Well another time.

Cascades D'Ouzoud

2009-01-05T11:44:00.005Z

A couple of hours drive out of Marrakesh is a place I've always wanted to go - the Cascades D'Ouzoud, a spectacular waterfall that is also home to Barbary apes.

The drive there was stunning with a back drop of the High Atlas Mountains with their jagged cap of snow. In front were fields of bright green sprouting barley, groves of olive trees and some palm trees, often bordered with concrete irrigation channels.

On the road it meant dodging carts transporting people and goods from place to place, mules with grass laden baskets on either side of their bodies and a smattering of cars of all types and vintages. A very pleasant drive in the sunshine.

Heading up to the first lookout that looked over the falls, soon the crowd grew as the Barbary apes scampered around, no doubt clustering in the hope of food. All I tried was to get photos of them but often they were to quick for me. This is a photo of one I took later indulging on a fresh olive feast on the edge of the olive groves.

The falls themselves were spectacular: three cascading torrents tumbling onto rocks two-thirds of the way down and then spraying into a curtain of water. The gorge created is tall and I especially liked the golden coloured tree on the top of the falls. Its autumn colour a contrast to the blue sky, white water and red rocks. I walked to the bottom of the falls, past souvenir shops and small cafes many of which were closed due to it being the off season.

Down the bottom were a couple of boats if you wanted to cross the water at the bottom of the falls as the water level was high and rock hopping was not an option. Mind you much of the track on the other side was washed away.

Then went for a walk around the top of the falls, first up to a local village then around the other side, through the olive groves to the edge of the falls where the Barbary apes congregated and the view of the falls wasn't that spectacular. It was also a chance to see some local life such as the ploughing below.

Back in Morocco

2009-01-05T11:35:00.004Z

Having been back in Morocco for a month, in many ways it felt like returning home. Lots of familiar faces, friendly smiles and hugs in greeting. I even got to share in some of the Christmas spirit go to a Christmas party and a Christmas concert. Plus it was nice to go out and have the option of having a glass of wine with your meal. Morocco's reds sure are good. Unfortunately one of the 2 bottles I brought back in my luggage didn't make it - poor packing on my behalf meant that I ended up with some wine coloured things in my bag!

I also got to see my friends 3 month old baby for the first time, even babysitting him for a while. Luckily he didn't cry too much.

On the down side, the weather was colder and wetter than normal but it has made the countryside look great. Green crops and grass everywhere. Plus this combined with my wonderful coughing friends resulted in me getting a cold so wasn't great for a few days - no voice, a sore throat and a horrible cough. But it is mostly gone now although I think the Bangladeshi pollution is doing its best to bring on a recurrence!

I also got the opportunity to revisit some favourite haunts plus some new ones. There is so much to see and do in Morocco. Plus I got to try out my new digital SLR camera. I'll put some pictures of these places in some following posts.

Back to Morocco

2008-10-04T10:16:00.002Z

Well I have done it, I have bought my air ticket to go back to Morocco for a one month visit in December. It will be great to go back and catch up with people and do some more sightseeing, as long as it is not too cold. AND hopefully I will have bought a digital SLR camera by then so it will be a great opportunity to try it out. As for what I will do while I am there, I have no idea of the specifics yet as I have a few other things to deal with before I have time to start thinking about that. Like getting myself organised for work tomorrow. I can't believe how quickly the one week holiday has gone!

Reminiscing about Morocco

2008-07-25T04:58:00.006Z

Having been back in Australia for the last few weeks, after not having been here for 18 months, I have spent a lot of time talking about my life in Morocco, the attractions of Morocco and showing photos of Morocco. I made a photobook through Snapfish in which I put my best photographs and that has been a real hit. Of course it also makes me sad about leaving Morocco but I hope to be back!

Here are some of the photos that seem to get the most comments and impress people the most. They are also some of my favourite photos.Spring in the High Atlas mountains

Detail of a Moroccan door, one of many photographs I have!

Berber houses in the High Atlas mountains

A rose at the Saadien Tombs, Marrakesh

Family get together

2008-07-15T10:07:00.003Z

Well I finally made it back to Australia - it just took an extra 24 hours! As my sister also came over from Perth to visit, last week was a real family get together. The first time my mother had her 3 daughters together for 11 years. At least we got to spend some good time together as well as getting out and about a bit in the cold weather. This is just a short post as I am on dial-up internet!

Mum and my sister in front of a tree stump that has been carved into nursery rhyme characters using a chain saw -
Here is Mum and the three of us -

Leaving Morocco

2008-06-30T18:35:00.004Z

The time is almost here, tomorrow I fly to London then on to Australia. It is always a very difficult decision when working internationally to decide when to leave one country and to move to another. Based on the fact that it is a long way and expensive to get from Morocco to Australia I decided to look for a job in Asia, somewhere closer to Australia. In doing so, it would give me the opportunity to see my mother more often while she is still fit enough to appreciate it. When I get back this time it will have been 18 months since I have visited Australia.

So after I visit Australia for one month's holiday, I am off to Dhaka, Bangladesh to work.

Am I sad about leaving Morocco? Absolutely as it is a great place to live and work most of the time. It is safe, the people are friendly and I have made some good friends here. It is also a good stepping off point to Europe and other parts of Africa. But I still haven't mastered Arabic or French!

Having said that I hope to be back to visit Morocco and I also hope to return to Africa to work at some stage. So this blog mightn't come to a complete end now, but instead I'll post less often. I also hope to start a blog about life in Bangladesh, and when I do I will put a link to it on this blog.

Au revoir Maroc.

More attempted abstract cacti photos!!

2008-06-29T17:40:00.004Z

Yves Saint Laurent memorial, Marrakesh

2008-06-28T21:28:00.006Z

While in Marrakesh I took my friend to see the spectacular Majorelle Gardens. This second visit was not enough, after she left I went back for a third visit. Actually this one was a research visit for a potential travel article. It was also the coolest outdoor place in Marrakesh on one of the forty degree days. In the cafe they had mist sprinklers around the edges, which must have dropped the temperature by more than 10 degrees. Made the relatively expensive prices for food and drinks worthwhile. Oops, forgot to photograph the cafe! But here is a reminder of the gardens anyway.

What has been added to the gardens since I was there last is a memorial to Yves Saint Laurent after his death on June 1st 2008, who bought and restored these gardens in the 60s. He had a villa next door in which he spent a large amount of his time. In the dappled shade of the banana trees is what loks like a Roman column on top of a terracotta base. This quiet oasis in the Marrakesh mayhem is an ideal place to sit and remember one of th best known French designers.
After this I decided to try and take some artistic photographs of the cacti, not that I am a very artistic person! Here's one.

Ourika Valley

2008-06-28T21:27:00.003Z

The Ourika Valley was one place I hadn't seen in Morocco until the last couple of weeks. It is a very picturesque valley coming down from the High Atlas Mountains and relatively close to Marrakesh, only a 45 minute drive away. The valley has steep mountainsides, a bubbling stream running down the centre of the valley that is bordered by green fields of crops. Cooler than Marrakesh (not hard when it has been 43 or 45 degrees for the last few days) and an attractive peaceful environment it is an ideal destination for day trippers. There are lots of cafes and restaurants scattered along the valley edges to cater for these visitors. In addition there are also many hotels and auberges for visitors who want to stay overnight. I can imagine it would be a very peaceful place then, once the day trippers go home. It certainly is picturesque with th buildings being forced to be built on the stepp mountainsides, often painted very colourfully or decorated in an ornate way.
Located 24 kilometres up the valley is th pilgrimage site of Setti Fatma. here an annual festival is held at the shrine or Koubba of Setti Fatma. Not when I was there though.
We returned directly along the Ourika Valley to Marrakesh, however to enter the valley we followed the piste (dirt) road from Imlil , winding through the mountains, past earthen housed Berber villages and road excavation. We also passed turn off to Oukaimeden, Morocco's main ski resort, which is reached by following the Ourika Valley. Travelling the piste road gave the opportunity to see some stunning mountain vistas. Unfortunately photographs can not give the scale and grandeur of these views. so high were the mountains that the villages looked like they wre made from brown paper-covered matchboxes. Juniper grew wild in many areas of these mountains - Red Juniper, Spanish Juniper or Prickly Juniper. Here is an attempt to depict these stunning views in the photograph below.

Back down south again!!!

2008-06-28T18:53:00.005Z

I have just spent a two weeks down south again, around Marrakesh. First met an Australian friend who had never been to Morocco and showed her some of the sights of Marrakesh plus did a day trip to Imlil and Ourika Valley. So I got to see some things I hadn't seen before. Here we are at the Bahia Palace in Marrakesh.

Then I spent a few days in Essaouira, always a good place for R & R. It wasn't any different this time as I managed to fit in a couple of siestas. Such a tough life. At least this time I did manage to get the photo that typifies Essaouira - the medina through the circular hole in the ramparts.

After that just spent a couple more days in Marrakesh, and survived the oven-like heat Something like 43 degrees Thursday and 45 Friday. Hot, that is for sure. Even made the 30 degrees and high humidity of Rabat seem cool.

I will do a couple more posts on specific aspects of the trip. Here is a movie of the Ben Youssef medersa, my favourite place in Marrakesh, but I think I need a little more practice at taking movies on my digital camera!! I haven't been able to upload it yet. Will try again tomorrow.

Things are a changin' (in the mountains)

2008-06-12T16:23:00.006Z

Things are a changin' in the High Atlas Mountains. Progress is arriving and is starting to change traditional Berber life. Mind you, they deserve a few little extras to make life easier, as the altitude, extremes of temperature, harsh terrain and long distances to roads and schools have prevented them progressing to the same degree as many other Moroccans. So what has happened:

1. Electricity has and still is arriving. The metal pole structures to hold up the wires are carried in on mules in pieces, then put together by hand. A couple of hours walking can take you from one village that has electricity to one that has to wait a little longer. The result: Once bare flat roof-tops are now dotted with satellite dishes so people can watch TV. Will this change the lifestyle? Probably but only time will tell.
Note the presence of many, many satellite dishes

2. The construction of more roads into the mountains. Traditionally Berbers have travelled the mountains on narrow, winding trails by foot or on mules. Now the roads, unsealed of course, enable motorbikes, 4 WDs and small trucks to travel from village to village, although not all villages have road links yet. The effect is seen most on the change in farming. The traditional crops of barley and corn are being replaced by cherry, apple and plum trees. Fruit from these trees is taken to markets in nearby towns and sold, and the money gained is then used to buy the staples such as flour, sugar from the same markets. It has become much easier to transport thee goods back to the villages with the presence of the roads.
Mules on the road

3. Not quite so recent but still in the last 5 years, an effort has been made to built schools so the Berber children can have access to an elementary/primary education. Up until this time, young children went to the Koranic school at the local mosque, while a few of the older ones may have walked long distances to get to school.

4. Tourism has been around for quite a while, but the numbers are increasing, especially since the budget airlines started flying into Marrakesh. This means the Berber people have a greater exposure to western ideas and culture. Today the access to TV is probably doing the same thing. On the other hand, the presence of tourists puts money into the local economy through staying at houses, hiring guides and mules and buying goods.

A Gite that tourists stay in

Mules in the Mountains

2008-06-08T18:11:00.005Z

Mules are an essential part of life for the Berbers in the mountains. For centuries they have been the mainstay of transport of both goods and people. However, the introduction of new roads into remote mountain valleys, to remote villages is changing this today.

On our hike in the mountains, we met mules carrying cherries to market, mules carrying building materials but mostly mules carrying the luggage of tourists as they hike the trails.
Part of the trip involved us travelling on mules rather than walking so as to reach the destination faster. Although I didn't plan to ride a mule, I had to as the muleteers wouldn't leave until they had someone on every mule. I found riding the mules quite a relaxing way to travel - just sit back and admire the view and the other hikers sweating away. I named my mule "Speedy Gonzales" as it was always trying to get further ahead and wanted to be at the front but had to stay at the back. Fortunately I got to walk not along after we started down, as someone else wanted to ride my rule.

Most of the mules have embroidered saddle frames and colourful hand-woven rugs below the saddles. Some were friendly, some were not. Some were calm, some were agitated. Some walked along the centre of the track, others close to the edge.

Hiking in the High Atlas Mountains

2008-06-08T10:20:00.005Z

I spent most of last week hiking through the High Atlas Mountains with a group of students. Tiring? Yes, but the stunning views made it all worthwhile. The fact that 12 and 13-year olds could appreciate the stunning scenery was amazing in itself. We did go up and down the winding mountain-side trails, often with steep drops down to the gullys below.
Through traditional Berber villages with their flat roofs and mud and straw construction. The houses are also built up on the mountainside above the gardens and terraces that are placed as close as possible to the water in the valley's flowing stream. Aged, huge walnut trees often shaded the path, their nuts still a green "blob" on the tree. The cherry trees were loaded with red fruit, while the apples and plums were still growing. Corn and barley grew on the terraces with much of the barley in the process of being harvested.

We passed mules loaded with wooden boxes of cherries, "grass ladies" - a woman surrounded by a huge cape of freshly cut grass cur from near the river and then taken to feed the animals, young boys shepherding a herd of goats, women herding cows and even a crazy tourist cycling the mountain tracks.

Green Flash again

2008-06-08T10:01:00.003Z

On Friday night I finally got to see it. It is small but definitely green, so I can leave Morocco saying I have seen it. Even then, not all the people watching saw it, so fleeting is the glimpse of green.

Here is a photo so you can see what it looks like: (photograph by Peter Braun)

Here is an explanation:

from: http://durhamregion.typepad.com/astronomy/2006/06/the_mysterious_.html

Where was the green flash???

2008-06-01T10:42:00.006Z

Last night I went to a farewell party for some friends out at Temara Beach. It was probably my last opportunity to see the famed, but hard to see, "green flash". The green flash is a brief appearance of green on the horizon as the sun just disappears behind the Atlantic Ocean in this case. There is a scientific explanation as well but I will not go into it here. But I didn't see it, it didn't happen last night. According to my friends there was a really good one two nights earlier. Such is life.
Anyway it was still very pleasant sitting on the beach, listening to the waves crashing on the rocks and watching the sun slowly set. It was a pretty sunset, lots of yellow and oranges and a few fluffy clouds. It was also really nice to chat with people in such a pretty and relaxed environment. While we talked, the children dug a big, big hole - a shortcut to China?

W.a.i.t.i.n.g for the "Green Flash"!

10 "not so great" things about Morocco

2008-05-29T19:55:00.003Z

After doing the 10 great things about Morocco, it is time to look at the other side - 10 "not so great" things about Morocco. So here we go!

1. Crazy drivers - almost any bizarre action you can think of happens here in Morocco. Not just going through red lights and not using indicators. I've seen them reversing the wrong direction in one-way streets, turning left from the far right lane, stopping in the middle of the street to talk and swerving to avoid pedestrians who never look. Why there are pedestrian crossings painted on the streets I will never know? Is it any wonder (other than they drive on the wrong side) that I don't drive here!

2. Continual attention from Moroccan males, everywhere you go. I may not be young any longer but I still get whistled at, comments from passers-by (3 at least this afternoon), car horns tooted at me and the continually getting looked at. At least with dark sunglasses you can avoid the eye contact.

3. Language - With French and Arabic being the main languages spoken here, it is hard for an English speaker. OK I should have made a greater effort to become fluent in one of these languages, but that is hard when you spend all day working in English. having said that, more and more people are speaking English. All the English languages schools in Agdal are evidence of this.

4. Bookshops - few large bookshops but the have few books in English. Oh, I love going to London to browse

5. Honesty - Bribing and lying seem to be a traditional part of life here. It becomes very annoying when it impacts on your job, particularly when students think cheating and lying are the way to pass! Even my maid was sacked because of subtle stealing.

6. I think I will have to stop at 5 for now. Isn't that sad, or happy in another way, that I can only think of 5 "not so great" things about Morocco. So obviously the good outweighs the bad! So why am I leaving???

Mawazine at the Chellah

2008-05-25T11:55:00.002Z

Mawazine is a 9-day long music festival held here in Rabat with musicians from all over the world playing. Some concerts are free , while others cost money. Even thought there was a number of people I would have like to have seen, most of the performances are late at night hence I couldn't go and then manage to get up at 6 and be in a good frame of mind for work.

Anyway yesterday evening I finally made it to a performance at the Chellah, a great outdoor venue with views of the hills and the white town of Sale behind while trees were along the sides and storks soared overhead.

For about one and a half hours I watched Omar Bashir, an extraordinary player of the Oud, and hid fellow musicians play Iraqi and Anduludian music. The Oud is a traditional Arab stringed instrument like a guitar but has six pairs of strings.

Bashir has been playing the Oud since a young child as his father introduced the instrument the west and popularised it as a solo instrument. Although born in Hungary he has spent time teaching in Baghdad as well as Hungary.

He is an incredible musician and starting with a solo, he made the Oud "talk" then combined his playing with two guitarists and a drummer then later a keyboard, a bass guitar and a percussionist. There was an incredible range of music, from the distinctive eastern rhythms to Spanish flamenco. It was well worth the entrance fee.

Maybe I'll make it back to Jazz in the Chellah festival in June, the 12th to the 16th! Here's the festival website.

10 great things about Morocco

2008-05-22T18:17:00.004Z

Time to list what things are great about Morocco.

1. There is a huge variety of places to visit on weekends and holidays.

2. The fresh fruit and vegetables are tasty, fresh and cheap. I'm really enjoying the cherries, nectarines, peaches and cherries at the moment.

3. It is safe to walk around on your own and at night, in most places but not everywhere.

4. It is a photographer's delight - I have thousands from my time here!

5. The weather is pleasant, most of the time. Although I did find Winter rather cold when I first arrived - not surprising considering I came from the tropics!

6. It is close to Europe. A 40 minutes ferry trip to Spain.

7. Yummy cakes and pastries, although I try not to indulge too often.

8. It is a great place for walking - Hilton Park or from Agdal to the medina here in Rabat, or up in the mountains.

9. Turkey - Not the country, the food. I have never eaten so much as I have here. Rarely do I buy chicken, instead I buy half a turkey breast.

10. The rail system runs regularly and almost on time between the major cities - Rabat, Casa, Fes, Marrakesh . . . And it is cheap and safe. I have not heard of a train crash while I have been here. The same can't be said about the buses.

Out to the farm

2008-05-18T11:02:00.006Z

Yesterday I had the opportunity to spend the day at a friends farm outside Rabat. Even though it is only about 20 kilometres in a direct line, it takes an our to get there as you have to drive a big loop to get to the other side of the lake. It was such a relaxing day in such a quiet place - just the sounds of the animals and birds while being surrounded by a lovely orchard with trees loaded with fruit - apricots, nectarines (neither of which were quite ripe), figs, grapes, pears . . .
So I got to spend time sitting in the garden reading a book while surrounded by the colour of the cascading bougainvillea, pots of red and pink geranium and even a fuchsia plant. Such a change from my Agdal apartment. Then their were the dogs running around, following me to the end of the block. The puppies were so cute, especially the roly-poly brown one.
Then to spend time with friends sitting and chatting in the garden, admiring the location, admiring the and admiring the house. All were a little envious I think. It really brings back memories of growing up on a farm, as I did in Australia. What a relaxing day. I'm just sorry you didn't make it Regina.

Kite Runner - the movie

2008-05-11T08:35:00.003Z

I have been wanting to watch this movie for a while as friends had told me that the movie is very true to the book. I must concur with this. As the movie progressed I would then remember what happened next in the book, and it did also in the movie.
There was some lovely landscapes and cinematography especially of the Afghanistan and Pakistan mountains, Kabul and particularly the kite flying. It was good to see the emphasis on the kite flying was retained. I found the movie much sadder than the book though, maybe because it was much more "in your face", whereas in the book you had to imagine what those scenes looked like.
The other facet of the movie I found interesting was the portrayal of the Muslims: their accepting of fate, the commitment to prayer, the non-acceptance of drinking alcohol; especially since I presently live in a Muslim country. Much of it was spoken in Arabic, and I could even recognise some of the words. Scary ! This also meant that for the majority of the movie you had to read the subtitles so you had to keep focused or some important moment would pass on by.
Kite Runner is a movie I would recommend anyone to watch given the chance, as it really does portray what life in Afghanistan used to be like and is like now. Well at last I think it does.

Tazzeka National Park Day Hike

2008-05-09T18:18:00.009Z

After a pleasant hike from the Auberge on Friday, it was time for the day hike on Saturday. Still with a lack of confidence about having a guide organised, we decided to take Aziz with us again. Even though he spoke no English, we had a couple of Arabic/French speakers with us who could translate. We started from the forestry office at the south western edge of Tazzeka National Park, from we we did a circuit - along the valley gradually climbing up on the way in and high up looking down on the valley as we returned.
It was amazing - one of the few places in Morocco where you can go hiking and not see people for a few hours, no plastic bags lying around and I think we saw a grand total of ten houses in 7 hours of walking (excluding the village from where we started). Beautiful scenery as we wandered along under shady trees including the oak-cork tree while listening the bubbling of the stream in the valley floor. As we climbed higher we past patches of lime green bracken fern above which were two brown cows.
Then we hit the "flowers". Next to an earthen house nested in to the mountain slope was a barley crop bordered by yellow daisies, white daisies, red poppies and other yellow flowers. Lots of photographs were taken as it was so pretty.
Then as we walked through the next crop it was lots of red poppies (plus thistles) leading a traditional rose bush covered in pale pink flowers. All this with a backdrop of the towering, mostly forest-clad mountains.
After lunch we headed back along the other side of the valley. The most amazing sight for me (and there were many) was a rocky mountain slope entirely covered in lavender with its purple spikes. Picking a flower I could smell the invigorating scent so placed it behind my ear. Then in between the patches of lavender were other flowers, including lots of golden daisies. The floral display went on and on.
A haven for wildlife, it was not only flowers we saw, but also a large frog and lots of lizards including one with an orange and yellow striped t-shirt below its jade green head. A bouboris said Aziz, but I have no idea how to spell the name. I can't find it on the internet but will have to try and find a book to find out what it is.
Even members of our group who have lived in Morocco for years, and done much hiking in this country, all said it was one of the best, if not the best hike they've done in Morocco.

Taza - Short Hike

2008-05-08T18:23:00.009Z

After dramas with the guide, more precisely the lack of one, for the planned day walk around the Tazzeka National Park, we returned to the auberge to instead do a shorter walk from there. Aziz, a guy who worked at the auburge became our impromptu guide for the walk around the mountain that forms the red cliff backdrop to the auberge.
Heading up the track behind the auberge, which is popular in the mornings and evenings with the local people taking herds of goats and sheep up for grazing, it was quiet during the middle of the day. We passed through a grove of olive trees covering the barley crops below in a shower of cream petals from their star-shaped flowers. Patches of red poppies and yellow daisies provided even more colour contrast, while down in the valley was a patchwork of green and yellow - the villagers crops. We followed the track as it wound around the side of the mountain, until we reached the saddle. It was like stepping into a different world. What a difference rain makes - the lucky side could grow crops and olive trees while the dry side was lots of white rocks scattered amid stunted palms about 40 cm high. In between were a few scrubby trees, with spiky leaves resembling holly. It was a dry barren area where we all had to be careful where we put our feet as it was easy to trip over a rock or a stick.
Meandering along, admiring the view I spotted what looked like a sheep sheltering in the shade of one of the scrubby trees. On approach it was revealed to be a nanny goat who had just given birth to two kids - one white and one black and white. one was so new that it was still wobbly on its feed and was having trouble finding her teats for the first important drink. Some of the group were totally enthralled by them - me - I must have seen too many calves being born when I was growing up so my excitement was limited.
Heading back down again we found a shady fig tree in the middle of a barley crop that made an ideal lunch stop. Ursula found the tree branches an ideal seat while some of us found a comfortable rock and others turned their coat into a picnic rug. It was a shady and relaxing place to eat our tuna and tomato sandwiches, hard-boiled eggs and oranges. Nearby while looking at the wildflowers: white and yellow daisies, gold daisies, tiny mauve stars and a herbaceous white spike of flowers, we spotted a black blister beetle with three horizontal red stripes across its back. So heavy was it that when it attempted take-off, it resembled a helicopter. (Unfortunately my photo didn't come out well so I've included Catherines.)
After Aziz gave a wandering donkey a drink of water at a nearby well, we took a slight detour to watch the local shearing. With the mob of sheep sheltering in the shade of a nearby tree, the stubble-faced shearer had a sheep on the track (soon to be a short-cut road to Fes) with its four feet tied together. Back bent, he was carefully cutting the wool from the sheep using a pair of big, metal hand clippers. I actually remember us having a pair on the farm as a kid, but I am not sure what we actually did with them. Once the fleece was removed, he just added it to the pile on the side of the road while the sheep was finally free to head back and join its mates.
Past so stick-covered, earthen piles where charcoal smoldered, through a scrubby forest, across another stone and palm covered plateau, it was then time to head down, back into the valley that was home to the auberge. Soon we were back home, back on the terrace enjoying the view, the local wines, each other's company and a few nibbles. Tough!!!

Taza Accomodation - Auberge Ain Sahla

2008-05-04T18:10:00.009Z

We drove in between red cliffs, ochre hillsides with olive trees covering their slopes in geometric designs, past sheep tied beside the road grazing, through villages of earthen, flat-roofed houses and friendly waving children walking along the side of the road. These were the highlights of the 15 km drive from the Fes - Taza road to Auberge Ain Sahla, our home for the weekend.
Driving along the rough track, past fields of barley and broad beans dotted with red poppies, while being directed by crudely painted "Auberge Ain Sahla" signs, there was no evidence of our destination. Instead a spectacular cliff face in reds and browns towering over the olive trees. finally our destination appears amid the olive trees, well camouflaged with its terracotta earthen walls and flat roofs, high enough on the mountainside to provide spectacular views. Below a patchwork of fields in shades of green and gold are dotted with the white of women working in the fields.

The auberge itself meanders over the hill side with the swimming pool and surrounding terraces at the bottom with shade provided by the booming olive trees and colour by the roses in red, pink salmon and yellow. Then there was the bright pink bougainvillea next to the lime green-leaved grape vine. We shared the so-called "apartment", that was really four rooms that share a bathroom. The luxury it gave was our own personal terrace with view behind to the cliff and down through the trees to the valley below. We also had dinner on the terrace one night. which was lovely.
It was some a quiet place, the staff were very helpful and it has a location to rave about.

Fes Cooking Class article

2008-05-04T17:54:00.002Z

To view an article I've just had published in the Weekend Australian on doing a Moroccan Cooking Class in Fes, click on this link. Hope it makes your mouth water!

A Relaxed Start to the Day

2008-05-01T08:51:00.003Z

Its Thursday and I am still at home at 9 am instead of being hard at work. Not the usually getting up at 6 and leaving for work at 7, instead I've been for a relaxed walk around the park in the early morning sunshine. Me and lots of others. It is interesting see what the Moroccan women wear when walking or jogging in the park - besides seeing many in an often thick djellebah, the others are still very well covered. Even on hot days many will be wearing wind proof/ rain jackets, which only make me think that they must be drowning in the sweat being produced. Men often wear the same. I 'm not sure that the people here have got the message that losing water from the body does not produce weight loss in the long term. Then there will be other women with a scarf covering their hair topped by a peaked cap. Although men are often seen wearing shorts, the only women seen in shorts are the rare expat who will be stared at and probably on the receiving end of passing comments. For me, this is one advantage of not speaking the language - Moroccan Arabic that is - I don't understand what they are saying to me so it is easy to ignore the comments. Even dressing conservatively and being over 40, I still get comments directed at me on a regular basis.

Today is a Moroccan Public holiday - International Labor Day and apparently this is one day that all the shops in Morocco are closed. This does not happen often. It is a holiday set aside to commemorate the historic struggle of working people throughout the world.

Since not only today is a holiday, but also tomorrow, it is a 4-day weekend so I am off to Taza for the break, which is 1 hour further on past Fez. Hopefully to do some hiking tomorrow and some R&R too. As I haven't been to that area of Morocco, it shall be interesting to see. I'll put up some photos on my return.

What is happening to the weather?

2008-04-22T20:58:00.003Z

Of late, the weather has become one of the major topics of conversation. Why? Well after some nice warm weather - high 10s and low 30s when my nephews visited, it has gone bizarre. We have had day after day of strong winds. Branches have blown off trees, the sand of the Sahara has blown in the windows meaning I had to sweep the floors as they had a brown coating, traffic lights have been turned sideways sand and grit managed to get under my sunglasses and irritate my eyes while I walked home. This while my sunglasses are quite tightly fitted to my face. Along with the wind has been rain storms, loud enough to wake me during the night, and creating rivers of water down the streets. Then there has been the thunder and lightning, something not seen often here and it has been cold. Almost as cold as it was in the middle of Winter. Of course, the central heating in my apartment block was finished a couple of months ago.

However, relief is in sight with temperatures later in the week getting up to the mid-twenties. The wind has dropped but it is still windier than normal. the trouble with the wind is that more people seem to be sick and not as easygoing. Small incidents become large upsets and responses are often more curt. As a teacher my patience is not as good as it should be while the students are much more impatient. Then again, maybe it is tiredness and a long school year with not many holidays. Only six more days before the Year 12 students start exams.

Hoping for blue skies and sunshine. (Maybe my Vitamin D levels are low!)

To the Med

2008-04-16T18:17:00.008Z

Last weekend I headed north to the blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea. First was the picturesque drive through the Rif Mountains to Tetouan. Past a patchwork of green fields, mosque minarets in all sorts of colours spiralling skyward and a mixture of flat-roofed houses and ones with corrugated, gabled roofs. Patches of bare rock dominated some of the mountain tops, with their similarity to southern Spain providing clear evidence of a similar geological history.

What was amazing was the huge amount of construction occurring - more resorts and apartment blocks. Mostly white they give a Mediterranean feel against the backdrop of the green mountains. New earth-moving machinery was everywhere - front-end loaders, dump trucks and cement trucks. The coast between Tetouan and Ceuta will be unrecognisable from one week to the next.

I spent part of one day wandering the fairways of the Royal Golf course at Cabo Negro.With lots of long grass and bare patches, the fairways weren't in the best condition, however the view from a hill-top on one of the back nine fairways made it all worthwhile. Mind you it was a pleasant walk with blue skies overhead and a gentle breeze.

Staying at the Sofitel at Marina Smir was a luxury that I don't normally indulge in. From the balcony were views across the swimming pool, tennis court and garden to the beach and the Mediterranean. Not hot enough for a dip in the pool or sea it was very pleasant sitting under an umbrella by the pool reading. I certainly needed the relaxation. But the highlight for me was the buffet breakfast - fruits, cheeses, omelettes, pancakes and even hot chocolate! With such a feed, only one other meal was necessary.

The Sofitel

The trip back was made even faster with the recent opening of the motorway to Tangier Port, which is only about 20 km from Ceuta. From the road winding around the coast, there was a nice view across Ceuta. We decided not to go there as with some of us leaving and some just visiting, shopping was not high on anyone's list. Plus it takes a while to get through immigration, since Ceuta is Spain. At the late lunch stop in Asilah, we tried to sample the seafood at the well-known restaurant Garcias, but no reservation, no table. Instead we found another restaurant nearby and sat on the footpath still sampling local fish dishes. It was amazing the number of tourists in Asilah, which is pretty normal for the weekend I believe.

Ceuta

I came back feeling rested and relaxed; at least for a few days!

Among the Righteous

2008-04-11T09:48:00.003Z

A few weeks ago for one of the book groups I belonged to we discussed the book, Among the Righteous by Robert Satloff. It appealed for two reasons. First it focused on the Jews of North Africa, and second, Robert Satloff lived in Rabat for a about a year and was known to some of the book group members.

The book focused on the search for Arabs in North Africa who had in some way given protection to or rescued the Jews of North Africa during the Holocaust. With my limited knowledge of European and African history, the first third of the book related the history of these areas, the intertwining of it in relation to and prior to the Holocaust. I did not know that Nazi Germany, Vichy France and Fascist Italy penetrated so far into Africa and with such effect. They took away the civil rights of the Jews, confiscated their property, restricted their movement, used them as slave labour and imprisoned them in concentration camps. For me, I had know idea of this French attitude, which seems contradictory when France at the time took on Morocco as a protectorate.

A number of the concentration camps and much of the slave labour was involved in the building of a railway line across the Sahara. The author managed to visit (in the early 2000s) the remains of some of these camps, come railway stations, in Morocco close to the Algerian border. Some of our book group members thought this would be an interesting visit to try and undertake today.

Next the book focused on the author's search for Arabs who had aided, protected and rescued North African Jews, and a difficult search it was. It seemed that Arabs either did not know about their families earlier involvement in this area or did not want to broadcast their involvement in it.

However he did succeed finding a family that hid Jews on their farm, while some Jews got false identity papers at the Grand Mosque in Paris. What I found saddest though was prior to the time of the Holocaust, the Jews in Tunisia were given French citizenship with many joining the French Army. Yet when Tunisia was invaded by Vichy France their citizenship was revoked with the Jews becoming the enemy of France.

The result was that a once large and important part of North Africa's population has now dwindled to a tiny number. Recently I was told there is one Jewish family remaining in Fes. The synagogues and Jewish cemeteries may remain but those to support, maintain and use them do not.

Among the Righteous was an interesting and eye-opening tale, but not one that kept me riveted.

Marrakesh

2008-04-07T18:43:00.009Z

When I visited Marrakesh, along with my nephews, two weeks ago I would have to agree that it is certainly the peak tourist time. Even during the day the Djemma el-Fna was packed. That is not something I have seen before. While wandering in the medina were lots of tour groups. Hopefully all these visitors and the money they bring in is providing some spin offs to the local Moroccans.Whilst there we visited the normal tourist haunts, the Saadien Tombs - it sure is hard to believe they were "forgotten" about for a few hundred years; the ruins of the Badi Palace, the wonderful architecture and craftsmanship on display in the Bahia Palace, the Marrakesh Museum and the stunningly beautiful Ali ben Youssef Medersa. I find the carved white plasterwork, the contrasting dark brown cedar wood and the small arched windows that overlook the central courtyard a photographer's delight. So of course, I took just a few more photos! (There is one below.) Best of all is the cheap entrance fee, 10 Dirham per place except for the medersa, museum and quobba which cost 60 dirham for the three. Still cheap though.As I hadn't been before, one of the highlights was a visit to the colourful Majorelle Gardens, just outside the walls of the medina. Here electric blue combines with buttercup yellow and leaf green on the painted buildings, window frames, pots and fountains contrast with the dull green of the dominant cacti in the garden and the crimson of the cascading bougainvillea. There is also a small museum, which includes some lovely art works by the garden's designer, Jacques Majorelle, along with Berber jewellery, textiles and carpets. Mind you the 30 dirham entrance fee to the garden and an extra 15 to the museum make a visit expensive by Moroccan standards, however it is a place of calmness, shade and serenity, thus providing respite from the hustle and bustle outside. Once owned by Yves St. Laurent who has a house next door, I believe it has recently been returned to the people of Marrakesh. Here are a few photos (I did take quite a lot!).

Back to Fes

2008-04-06T13:36:00.008Z

No visit to Morocco is complete with a visit to the ancient city of Fes, so I took my nephews there for a weekend experience. Again I stayed with the wonderful Josephine at Dar El Hana again, where she and cook Fatima had a wonderful meal awaiting when we arrived about 9 pm. We had to catch the train from Rabat after I finished work, hence the late arrival. Four courses we feasted on: first Harira followed a number of cooked salads then the main course a Fatima creation joking called "Chin Wah" chicken where Moroccan cuisine gains a Chinese flavour. A chicken cooked with noodles flavoured with finely sliced olives and chilli. It certainly made a nice change from couscous, which I am not a fan of, and tagine, which we had had twice a day for most of the previous week when travelling around the south. To finish off we had home-made orange cake containing orange rind, just like my mother makes, which was served with fresh strawberries.

The Blue Gate

In an effort to ensure my nephews learned more of the history and architecture of Fes than what I new, and hopefully I would learn something to (I did!) I organised a guide through Josephine. So in three hours we went from Bab Boujloud, the Blue Gate, to the tanneries. We visited the Medersa Bouinania, which I hadn't been to before. It had some wonderful craftmanship on display: carved plasterwork, painted cedar ceilings, detailled zellij or mosaics and some nice stained glass windows in the women's section.

Above: the Medersa Bouinania

We peeked into the Moulay Idriss Mausoleum because as non-muslims we could not enter, looked at the attractive entrance to the Nejjarine Complex and passed the Qaraouiyine Mosque, which we could also not enter. In between were the narrow of often dark alleys of the souks bordered by small shops with colourful carpets piled high, blue and white Fes pottery stacked high, colourful spices piled high into perfect cones and a rainbow of djellebahs hanging from overhanging verandahs.The finale, and probably the highlight for the boys was the tanneries. The large semi-circular pits we looked down on were filled with red, yellow, brown and maroon. The dye pits, using natural dyes are used to colour the animal skins - sheep, goat or cattle. In the background are the white pits where the skins are soaked to remove the wool and hair.

We spent one of our days while in Fes taking a grand taxi to the Roman ruins and mosaics of Volubulis. With this being my third visit to Volubulis and second to Meknes, the highlight of the day for me was the visit to the revered town of Moulay Idriss. Here is Morocco's only cylindrical mosque minaret, dark green and covered in Arabic text from the Koran. Also here is the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss, again it can only be glimpsed by non-Muslims. But good views of the mausoleum and picture postcard views of the symmetrical white-washed town on the hill I did get to see.

Moulay Idriss above, below the cylindrical minaret

While there I heard about a village south of Fes where people live in caves and the women sit out the front making djellebah buttons. It certainly sounds interesting but will have to wait for another visit.

Desert, Gorges and Kasbahs

2008-04-05T19:30:00.005Z

While taking my nephews on a trip exploring some of Morocco's highlights we covered the traditional tourist circuit from Marrakesh to Dades and Todra Gorge, to the desert of Erg Chigaga and back to Marrakesh. With quite a few other stops along the way.

Back to Dades Gorge for my third visit, it was too windy to do the circuit walk up the side gorge so instead we drove to the end of the road for normal vehicles. To travel further 4WD is needed. The switchback road to travel from the base of the gorge up to the clifftop was amazing and is shown in the photo below. We passed villages merging with the earthen colour of the cliffs. While beside the river were a patchwork of green, barley and other crops interspersed with the pink blossom covered peach trees, the light green of the almond trees and the bare brown branches of the walnuts. The gorges remained one of the Moroccan highlights for my nephews visit.
The weather also impacted on our desert visit as a sand storm blew and blew and blew, not blindingly but enough to stop our camel trip into the desert where we were to sleep on the sand, under a Berber tent and marvel at the stars overhead (although there is still not as many as in the southern hemisphere though). Instead we spent the late afternoon and evening lazing around in an Auberge bordering the desert, while the windows rattled. We did get out to see the stars, and the nearby lake, late in the evening after dinner. We returned to the sound of beating drums and singing as some of the locals entertained the other stranded visitors. Not to miss out completely, my nephews did get a camel ride into the desert for sunrise next morning. it wasn't great due to clouds low on the horizon. As I've already been on numerous camel rides, I decided bed was a better option.

A short hike in the mountains

2008-04-01T20:22:00.009Z

Towards the end of our trip around the south we did an overnight hike in the High Atlas mountains as I thought my nephews would enjoy the walk and the stay in the Berber house overnight. We left Imlil mid-afternoon and walked for about 3 hours, mostly up but the last half hour down to Tinegherine. On the way up, we did manage to see a few shepherds herding their sheep on the hillside. It was a bit of a grey day though as can be seen in the photos.
Along the way be passed cherries trees covered in white blossom, terraced fields filled with bright green onions and the odd peach tree with pink blossom. It is too high and cold for peach trees to do well.Reaching the village we found our home for the night, a typical rectangular, earthen house built on the side of the mountain to face the sun. We soon observed its excellent insulation properties as the night got colder and colder. For a change from the endless diet of tagines, we even had spaghetti for dinner cooked by muleteer come cook (who was also our host), Hussein.
After an early night we woke to the eerie sight of white: trees branches covered in white, the once green onion fields had now become covered in white. It had snowed overnight while we slept.
Not to be daunted we spend just over 4 hours heading around and down the mountain to Imlil, frequently walking on and through the freshly fallen snow. That certainly added a bit of excitement for people from Australia who rarely see snow. We also passed through and around more earthen villages where the houses blend in with the rocky mountain slopes, through orchards or cherry and walnut trees, across rustling streams. It was a very pleasant walk in the sunshine, with the hot egg tagine providing an ideal reward at the end.
Now I just need to get back and do some more walking in the mountains as it is such an inspiring place. Mind you, it might not be too quiet when I go with a group of students in early June!

On Holiday

2008-03-30T19:36:00.007Z

My blog has been on holiday while I have been showing Morocco to my nephews, in between having to work. For my nephews, this is their first trip outside Australia so it has been an experience in so many ways. It started with the long 30 hour flight here, then the taxi trip from the airport instantly reminded them that they were no longer in Australia. Then there is the difference in dress, mosques not churches, crazy drivers and driving, different food such as tagines and couscous and then there is the language, French and Arabic with only occasional English spoken. But just in case they are feeling homesick, there are eucalyptus trees everywhere plus wattles blooming in gold. Even on the train trip today, one commented that we could have been travelling through Victoria's Mallee. Here's a couple of photos of what they have experienced. I will include more details about specific places and activities in the days following.

Returning from a Sahara desert camel trip

Hiking in the High Atlas mountains (amongst the snow)!

Tour Hassan, Rabat

2008-03-02T12:05:00.007Z

Yesterday I visited Tour Hassan for probably the sixth time, this time with 70 thirteen and fourteen year old music students who were visiting from Europe, Asia and the Middle East. Tour Hassan is a place I love going back to as it has great views over Rabat and Sale and incredible craftsmanship in the Mausoleum of Mohammed V.

Tour Hassan, or the Hassan Tower, refers to the 44 metre high unfinished minaret that was to be the highest in the Muslim world when it was begun in 1195. Both the minaret and mosque were to remain unfinished due to the death of Yacoub al-Mansour, the ruler at the time. The mosque itself was destroyed by the earthquake of 1755 that also caused so much damage to Lisbon. Besides the minaret, all that remains today are the mosque pillars.

Adjoining the mosque ruins, is the more recently constructed Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the grandfather of the present king, Mohammed VI. Completed in 1971, this ornate marble structure has interior walls covered in zellij where tiny tiles are combined into mosaics that form intricate geometric patterns. Above the domed ceiling has ornately carved wood with coloured glass inserts. Whilst admiring all the wonderful decoration, it is worthwhile looking down onto the onyx tomb of Mohammed V in the centre of the room, while off to the side is his son, the previous king, Hassan II.

Outside are stunning zellij fountains, huge ornate metal doors and giant mosque lamps.

While guarding the entrances are red and green clad guards on horses. The changing of the guards ceremony occurs roughly every hour as it cannot be easy for the horses to stand in one spot for that length of time, even though they have sand pits in which to stand. Additional guards stand at each of the four entrances to the mausoleum and at each of the four corners inside the mausoleum.

Bouregreg Development

2008-03-02T11:46:00.009Z

Rabat is situated on the south side of the Bouregreg River where it enters the Atlantic Ocean. Its twin city, and more conservative city, Sale is opposite on the northern bank of the river. Sale was once home to the Sale Rovers, a feared group of pirates who roamed the seas as far north as Iceland from the 16th to 19th centuries. Their booty included gold and people, who often then got sold into slavery.

Not long after I arrived in January 2006, the craftsman huts and shops and the grain market that bordered the river bank on the Rabat side were knocked down for redevelopment of the Bouregreg. With money from the Middle East, it is being turned into an area of glitzy shops, expensive hotels, fancy restaurants and even a marina for the expected expensive boats. It is certainly not being developed for the every day Moroccans. Here is how the marina looked yesterday, with the white buildings of Sale in the background.

On the Rabat side a promenade already follows the river edge. Paved footpaths bordered by tall palms link Tour Hassan to the Kasbah and Oudaya. It certainly is a pleasant area for pedestrians to walk along during the day or evening.

Hopefully the small, colourful wooden boats that once took people back and forth across the river will be able to continue to ply their trade. At present the drop-off point on the Sale side is far from buildings and the town itself because of all the earth works and reclaimed land.

It will be interesting to see what the end result is.

A Thousand Splendid Suns

2008-02-23T10:31:00.005Z

It seems to be a busy time at the moment with frequent bookgroup meetings, made all the more so because I am two different groups.

Last week we discussed Khaled Hosseini's latest book - A thousand splendid suns. It was mostly about two Afghan women and their families, who ended up both being the wife of the same man. Although enemies to begin with, one ended up giving her life for the other and her child. It is set against Afghanistan's turbulent past of the last 30 or so years and how that has impacted on women in that country.

Having recently also read Kite Runner, his first book, I did prefer Kite Runner possibly because it had more of a story and more "action". I also found the middle section of A thousand splendid suns to be quite slow and just a continual parade of violence against the women. However it did clearly portray many of the problems women faced and still face in this country. On one occasion the two women tried to escape by catching a bus out of Kabul, but of course you had to have a man accompanying you. So they asked to join a man and his family for the bus trip, paying him for the assistance but as they went to get on the bus he told the police. So instead of getting away they ended up in a police station before returning to a more ugly home situation. The book also highlighted the problems women faced to go out, having to be fully covered, not being able to go to school and gain an education and the problems of multiple wives.

Much of this related to life in Morocco, especially since a number of members are married to Moroccans who came from families with multiple wives. It was interesting to hear though that in these situations the wives didn't get on with each other, which was similar to what the book portrayed initially. The long-term Moroccan residents also agreed that here in Morocco, the women have been covering up more and more over the last few years. Not because it is enforced, generally not as a politically expression but more as an expression of their faith, their life and individualism. It is common to see a group of girls walking done the street, some with scarves on and some without. Some people felt that in some workplaces there is presently pressure put on workers to dress more traditionally, more conservatively by at least wearing a headscarf if not the hijab. Interesting thoughts!

There was also much discussion about the life of women in Morocco compared to the life of the women portrayed in the book. Here it was felt that out in the country life was probably similar with women expected to do all the cooking, cleaning, looking after the children plus here they tend to the crops as well. However in the towns life is changing with more women working outside the home but are things really changing? Will they change? Will the men let things change? Most educated men now only have one wife so that is a change already.

We all thought this book would also make a good film. I look forward to seeing the film of Kite Runner as a friend saw it soon after reading the book and said it stuck quite well to the story in the book. It may be in the medina already but I haven't been there recently to see.

Off again: Essaouira

2008-02-19T17:46:00.009Z

Just had a four day weekend, so what else could I do but go off exploring. Actually it was more of a weekend of R & R & R & R. Reading, writing, resting and relaxation, plus some exploring and good food. I headed south to the coastal town of Essaouira, which I had not visited since I was here in 2000 on holidays. The old part of town inside fortified walls is very attractively painted sky blue and white, although it looked like it could do with a good paint compared to the last time I was there.

However the biggest change was the increase in the number of tourists (seemed to be lots of French), more restaurants and cafes, lots more accommodation places and lots of souvenir shops and art galleries. Hard to believe that there was only a couple of accommodation places in the medina when I was there in 2000. Things certainly have changed. Rugs for sale, leather goods for sale, metalwork for sale plus lots of products made from the Tuya wood. I did have a look at the Argan oil products that were sold in a few shops. Argan oil is good for you both in cooking and for use on the skin. It comes from the nut of a fruit from the very slow-growing Argan tree that is found on the dry hillsides around Essaouira and Agadir. It has a nutty flavour when used in cooking, where I have used it in salad dressings.

What is there to do in Essaouira? Not a lot. Even less if shopping is not of interest. Wander the alleys and find interesting photographs, scaling the ramparts, which at sunset gives a nice view across the sea to the Ile de Mogador, visit the still active fishing harbour. Here the building of boats can be seen, or fishermen unloading their catch. The bright blue boats also make a great photo. Then some of the catch can be sampled at one of the fish stalls, where you pick your fish from the selection, it is then grilled for you and served with salad. A fresh tasty meal that doesn't cost much, depending on what you choose.

It is a great place to relax in, especially if you can find a nice hotel or riad with a sunny rooftop terrace. Most do have them. Where to stay? Avoid Riad Nakhla, as even though I had faxed my credit card details as requested and confirmed by booking, they said they hadn't received it and palmed me off to another place, Dar Marhaba. I had a nice room there, large and light, but a shored bathroom and the terrace was small. I somehow think it might be another 8 years before I go back again.

London vs Rabat

2008-02-06T19:35:00.001Z

Having just got back to Rabat after a few days in London, there were just a few noticeable differences.
1. Spending time wandering around bookshops, looking at books and even buying a few, is one of the highlights. I even managed to find a Moroccan recipe book in English, and it didn't cost much either. My favourite is Stanford's Travel Bookshop in Covent Garden. It just makes me wish I had a fortune to buy many of the wonderful books there (and a much larger luggage allowance!!).
2. Understanding what everyone around me was saying, well mostly. Not having to think when reading the menus. Ah!! Then there was reading the papers, a novelty I don't get here in Morocco where the only English-language paper is the International Herald Tribune, which doesn't inspire me.
3. Speaking of menus, dining out at an Indian restaurant. Special because there is none here in Rabat, and the trip to Casa just to visit a restaurant could only be justified on a very special occasion. Chicken Tika Masala, mmm I can still remember its creamy texture and spicy flavour.
4. Organised traffic. pedestrians that only cross when the cars are stopped by a red light except for one crazy woman I saw outside Hammersmith Station who almost got herself run over by walking out, waving her arms wildly, into the fast-moving traffic.
5. A hot English breakfast, with fried bacon and fried mushrooms, two hard to get foods here. Plus crunchy Granny Smith apples. It really is the simple things that make life great.
6. But best of all were my Aussie finds. I managed to not only get a jar of Vegemite but also a large can of Milo. It is strange, but when I don't have them, I crave them, even though normally I don't eat a lot of either. Unfortunately I didn't manage to find Violet Crumbles. I will have to wait until my nephews bring some over for me.

Plum Wine

2008-01-27T19:16:00.000Z

Today we had book group where we discussed the book Plum Wine by Angela Davis-Gardner. This book was about an American, Barbara, who went to Japan, Tokyo specifically, to teach English in 1966. Here she befriends a Japanese teacher, who one her death leaves her collection of plum wine to Barbara. Wrapped around each bottle of wine is an annual record of important life events for the previous year, written in Japanese of course. In the process of getting this translates, she falls for her translator Seiji, a potter, who also features in some of the annual records.
I would describe the book as a light read, a romance. It touches on deeper issues such as the bombing of Hiroshima and the effect on survivors and the Japanese response to the Vietnam War, but most our bookgroup members felt these issues could have been developed in more depth. Then again maybe that was not the aim of the author in the book.
With one member who has previously lived in Japan for 6 years, the book had a far greater meaning. It brought back many memories of her live there, and she is sure her daughters will also enjoy reading the book. However, other members felt they could not recommend the book to others. This really does show how books can be interpreted differently by different people. As for me I would only recommend this book as a light read.

Australia Day

2008-01-27T18:56:00.000Z

Yesterday was Australia Day, not that you would know it living here on the other side of the world. Australia Day commemorates the establishment of the first European settlement in Australia. It was the day Captain Arthur Phillip founded the first British penal colony at Sydney Cove (now Sydney). Today many Australians dig through their family history looking for traces of a convict past. Once an embarrassment, it is now a reason for notoriety. But no convicts in my past, not that I know of anyway.

Australia Day is also the day that the Australian of the Year is announced. This year it is the country music singer Lee Kernaghan, who also has spent much time helping rural Australians. If it is not droughts killing off the grass, sheep and cattle, it is floods drowning them. Being at the beck and call of nature , as farmers are, is not easy. I know firsthand as I grew up through droughts on the farm.

It is only because of reading Australian papers on the Internet that I remembered it was Australia day, but Monday is the Australia Day public holiday, since the 26th fell on the weekend.
Here is a couple of photographic reminders of Australia:

Crazy Street

2008-01-12T21:49:00.000Z

Rue Atlas is the street I live on. It is one of the main streets in the Rabat suburb of Agdal and recently it became a one-way street as they work on the new tramway. Instead of Atlas it should be called "Crazy Street", especially at 8 or 9 pm when it is absolutely crazy. Being driven down it at this time is like an obstacle course - cars double parked, often on both sides; cars reversing down the street; pedestrians strolling across the street without looking even if the traffic light says not too; car horns tooting; cars turning from the centre lane; cars parked on the footpath; people walking on the street because of the cars parked on the footpath; blaring music as the local hoons do laps past McDonalds; and so it goes on; speeding up to run the red light. . . . . . . . This is when I am thankful that I don't drive in Morocco (in addition to them driving on the wrong side of the road! Unfortunately it is not only on this one street that this happens, but rather on roads and streets and highways throughout the country. I am surprised the high road toll is not even higher. Thank goodness for the courtesy of many of the drivers.

Mind you when I walk down the street at 7 am on the way to work, or on a Sunday morning I sometimes have to remind myself that this is the same street. It is so quiet, with the resident cats being the most active sight. But then I should be thankful for the peace and quiet.

Mali - Part 5

2008-01-08T19:04:00.000Z

Here are a few more photos that didn't make the previous entries.

Mali - Part 4 (Timbuktu)

2008-01-08T18:27:00.000Z

Timbuktu, like the back of Bourke in Australia, the place in the middle of nowhere. I finally made it to Timbuktu after a few dramas because the Australian government put out a "Do Not Travel to Timbuktu" warning. The highest travel alert possible!

With dirt streets, clouds of dust, mud houses and being bordered by desert, Timbuktu is a real frontier town. Full of men with heads and faces covered by scarves with just their noses showing. Once I had got enveloped in a couple of clouds of red dust, I could understand why. Women in colourful dresses and skirts carrying laundry and shopping on their heads. And, like everywhere, kids playing in the dirt.
Timbuktu does not take a long time to explore. It has three mosques, some houses of intrepid European explorers, an interesting museum, a colourful market and as for the restaurants, they all have the same 8 things on the menu.
To experience the desert, well sort of, we rode camels out into the desert for one hour then spent the night camped in a nomads encampment.
It certainly was a New Year's Eve with a difference. Especially with the disappearing tourists who came to join us around the campfire as it neared midnight, but could not be found in the morning, having not made it the 20 metres back to their camp. The sunrise was spectacular though as it got me out of bed at 6 am on New Year's Day!

Mali - Part 3 (Niger River)

2008-01-08T18:10:00.000Z

Hard as it is to believe, the easiest way to get to fabled Timbuktu is by river. Three days cruising down the Niger River to be precise. Nothing to do but sit and watch the world go by: watch villagers washing at the river's edge, fishermen putting in their nets, goats getting transported across the river by boat, cattle taking a circular swim in the river to get clean, black smoke belching transport boats moving slowly, birds flitting back and forth between trees and cattle grazing on the river banks.
A couple of highlights were:

hippos lolling on the riverbank (not a great photo though)
the spectacular mud mosques visible in many of the villages
the colour of the local women as they went about their daily tasks
camping on the riverbank with a warming campfire
watching the sun rise and set over the vast Niger River.

Mali - Part 2 (Dogon country)

2008-01-07T18:52:00.000Z

South of the Niger River is a land of rugged, red escarpments, mostly rock covered plateaus, and where water is available patches of dark green where small onions are grown for sale. This is Dogon country, home of the Dogon people who live both above and below the escarpment.

Here we spent 3 days walking along the base of the escarpment, through villages where cars are rarely seen and donkey carts are the vehicle of burden. Occasional motorbikes provide an alternative form of transport, but walking along sandy tracks is still the most common.

Climbing down the escarpment to the floor below was a challenge for those like me who don't like heights. It was a very rocky, steep path but was fortunately shaded most of the way.
As we walked we explored the villages, their mud houses, conical-topped granaries and the cliff-top remnants of the earlier inhabitants - the Tellem, a pygmy race who the Dogon replaced. The Tellem built their cemeteries high up on the cliff faces, where they can still be seen today.Dogon culture is best known for their masks and mask dances. These relate to their beliefs that the earth, moon and sun were created by a divine being. Even stranger is the fact that they believed that the star Sirius was actually 3, long before it was proven to be the case by scientists. Fetishes and sacrifices are still believed in today. Here is a traditional meeting house.
I enjoyed the opportunity to see life as it is today, a very hard life I must say. Water is obtained from central wells and carried, cooking is mostly done over charcoal braziers and women and children always seem to be carrying something on their heads.

In one village, I got the opportunity to briefly see a Christmas day church service in a Christian church.In another village I got to see their Christmas celebration, a village get together with singing and dancing. Round and round they went in an anticlockwise direction. some men took a break to drink millet beer (brewed by the women of course) from a communal gourd bowl.
Improvements are slowly occuring, but mostly at the initiative of the Dogon people themselves. Their wells now have hand operated water pumps courtesy of the Japanese, while below is a school built with money provided by the Dutch.

Mali - Part 1

2008-01-07T18:25:00.001Z

With limited internet access in Mali, my blog has had to wait until I returned. In fact, only once did I go on the internet during my 2 weeks in Mali, but I didn't have time to have withdrawal symptoms. Mali is a country of variety, harsh landscapes, friendly people and boring but healthy food. Even restaurant has the same eight items on their menu!

On first sight it is hard to believe Bamako is a capital city. With mostly dirt streets, sheds that double as shops and a tiny airport where waiting is the norm. It took half an hour for our boarding passes to be printed out on departure!

However, amongst the dust and mayhem is a place of calm, the National Museum. It features traditional masks, ancient pottery and brilliantly coloured textiles in relatively modern buildings surrounded by trees and grass. Even a waterfall is at the entrance.

Leaving Bamako, it is straight into village life. Piles of striped watermelons beside the road, girls and women rushing up to the car windows to sell fruit, drinks or food whenever we stopped and petrol for sale in all sorts of glass bottles up to 1.5 litres in size. Then there are the markets where the parking lot is full of cattle and donkeys and the carts they pull. A man sews on a treadle sewing machine while women sit on the ground behind piles of oranges, bananas and tomatoes. A sweet smell emanates from huge cans of honey, fresh from the artificial beehives we see high up in the trees. Just in case sleep is taking over, the ever-present speed humps are a reminder that it is yet another village.
One of Mali's most well known attractions in the world's largest mud mosque in Djenne. Of course, as a non-Moslem I cannot enter it but it does form a stunning backdrop for the weekly Djenne market.

Listed as a World Heritage site, Djenne is a maze of mud houses bordering winding alleys, some with putrid grey drains down the middle. Even basic plumbing is still catching up here. This lack of colour in the town buildings contrasts with the vivid hues and striking geometric designs of the women's clothes, including scarfs. Market day is an ideal time to see this.
This is just a taste of what is to come.

Holidays . . . . . . Holidays . . . . . . .

2007-12-19T18:37:00.000Z

Hoorah, finally the holidays are here. Two and a half weeks and no work, no having to get up at 6 am, no arguing students and no more watching the clock (well not much anyway). Tomorrow I am off to Mali. To travel to West Africa has always been a dream of mine, and there is no easier time to do it than while living in Morocco. Mali is a direct flight just over 3 hours away, plus you can get a visa here in Rabat. If I was in Australia, it would be a 40 hour flight and I would have to send to Japan to get the visa. Going from one Moslem country to another, I don't envisage much of a Christmas celebration but I'm sure the sights, history, villages and travel will more than make up for it. Food? I'll have to wait and see.
Maybe I'll have the opportunity to post while I am there but I'm not sure about the availability of the internet, especially since ATMs are few and far between. Sounds as though technology is still on the way.
My cameras are packed, books to read and a few clothes complete the backpack. This time tomorrow I'll be on the way to the airport.
A Merry Christmas to all those left behind.

Christmas in Morocco

2007-12-11T20:50:00.000Z

It is hard to believe it is almost Christmas. So few signs of it here, no Christmas trees in public, no decorated shops and decorations only available in the big supermarket here. Even though we had a Christmas concert, called a Winter concert to be politically correct, at school with a few Christmas carols. We also had a Christmas breakup at work, with roast turkey but still . . . . . . . Maybe it is being so busy at work, not having a Christmas tree at home and planning to be away in yet another Moslem country for Christmas. At least I have managed to send a few Christmas cards, assuming they get there as it seems some postcards haven't been.

The Strings of the Lute

2007-11-25T09:53:00.000Z

Wednesday evening at bookgroup we discussed a book self-published by one of our own. It was "The Strings of the Lute" by Eileen Colucci.
Focusing on mixed culture marriage, the book follows the life of Lorraine who grew up in Long Island, New York, then moved to France after college where she met Larbi, a Moroccan studying architecture in France. The story follows their life in France, visits to each others countries and families before they finally marry and move to Morocco to live.
The book certainly presents many of the issues that must be faces in this inter-cultural situation, showing how solutions are arrived at and the effect on their lives. It portrays the Muslim world in a very positive light and shows the ready acceptance of this religion to non-believers. Morocco itself is also portrayed in a very realistic light. With a number of bookgroup members including the book's author, long-time residents of Morocco who are married Moroccans, discussion was animated.
Most felt the portrayal of Morocco and Islam was excellent but it also brought back to some the fact that many mixed marriages here in Morocco have not lasted. Naming of friends in this situation who separated followed. Much discussion also involved how much of the tale was based on the authors own life.
Being based on a traditional Arabic song or nouba, provides an interesting framework for the book, with preludes and five mizanes or measures.
For me, one of the issues was the books length (170 000 words) and the fact that the preludes told me what the ending was going to be, although interestingly not all the members saw the ending there.

Travel writing course Marrakesh

2007-11-22T12:25:00.000Z

Last weekend I spent three days writing, observing, writing, describing, writing, listening and writing some more. This was all part of a travel writing course I participated in run by an ex-magazine editor from the UK. He set up the Travellers' Tales oganisation specifically with the aim of teaching travel writing after he had received so much inappropriate material as an editor.

So the nine eager students ( plus 2 guys from the BBC who were doing a radio program - Excess Baggage - on the course) set off for the spice square in the souk on Saturday morning. Here our first job was to describe everything we saw in half an hour. I only managed to get to the first corner, two-thirds remained undescribed. Next we had to use our other senses other than sight to describe the same area. So much writing, no wonder we were told to bring lots of paper to make notes on. I really wondered what some of the shopkeepers and stall-holders must have thought watching nine foreigners madly scribbling as they briefly glanced up. Still many of these shopkeepers were friendly and willingly answered questions for these curious strangers.

Next step was to select one person in the square and to describe that person in detail - appearance, mannerisms, actions, interactions, conversations etc. Finally it was to select a group of people and describe their interactions and conversations. A break at last. We got to have lunch on the rooftop terrace of Cafe d'espices and so observed the Spice Square from above.

Back at Dar Baraka, our base, we listened and we wrote. Then some of us had to read out what we wrote for comment. Mostly positive, thank goodness. It was great to talk travel writing with the entire group interested in writing. Very much a change from my normal isolation as a travel writer. No wonder I felt I needed to do this course as inspiration.

A drinks break at the museum

Day 2 and we first visited the Marrakesh Museum and Medersa to describe architecture and note down facts. Then we went to nearby alleys, where tourists wander less frequently looking for constrasts and details to provide atmosphere. Plus I did manage to find a wonderful little tagine stall where I had lunch for 20 dirhams.

Finally after hearing advice about getting travel articles published, the crunch came. We had to write a 500 word article in three hours. However, I shortened my time by deciding to go to Bouganvillea Cafe for a lunch of brochettes ad salad. The 6 completed articles demonstrated how much variety in the experiences and descriptions we had each had during the 3 days. It was positive comments for all.

Was this course worthwhile? Even though I have had articles published already, I still learnt a lot and feel re-inspired. Now all I need is the time to write and research.

Winning photograph

2007-11-13T19:31:00.000Z

Morocco is a very photogenic place; there is the architecture, the markets, the mountains, the desert, the people, the food, and the list goes on . . . . . Don't ask me how many photographs of Morocco I have taken since I have been here, but it is lots. Anyway the exciting part is that finally I have one a prize with one of my Morocco photographs, one of the incredibly beautiful Chefchaouen. Lonely Planet and Flickr together run a weekly competition with a different theme each week, and the viewers and posters of the photographs vote on the one that inspires them most to visit the particular place photographed. lo and behold, in the Side Alleys competition I got third - I was only eighth when I left for Madrid and had ended up third by the time I got back. The winning photograph is below.

My prize - I got to choose a Lonely Planet book, which they will post out to me. As I already have the Morocco one, I hopefully am getting the Africa one. If you want to check out the rest of the entries, here is the link.

Madrid meanderings

2007-11-11T12:19:00.000Z

Last weekend I made use of the cheap Easyjet airfares and headed off to Madrid for a long weekend - only 700 dirham (less than A$100) return. Had three fully days in Madrid but three art galleries in three days was a bit much for me, two would have been quite sufficient. Mind you the visit just happened to coincide with the opening of a new section at The Prado, which was offering free entry to all. As a result had to queue for more than one hour to get in, even when arriving before the official opening time. The amazing thing, was that even with all these people there was still space as the museum is so big. Lots of religious paintings and portraits but some interesting pieces in between. The other art gallery I would recommend is Reina Sofia, which has Picasso's Guernica, not only the finished piece but a lot of the planning sketches and paintings. Also there are some of Salvador Dali's weird and wonderful pieces and some nice landscapes. Plus there was a special exhibition of photography, "The Double Face of Photography", including a couple of photographs of Australia.
Besides art galleries, I also went to the Royal Palace, where some of the rooms decoration was totally over the top. One had all walls covered in porcelain, many had murals on the ceilings and damask on the walls. There was also an armoury display with lots of different types of armour, not just for men but also children and horses. I thought the visit was well worthwhile. Nextdoor is the recently build cathedral, which is still in the severe style on the outside, like the palace. But inside it has the ceiling painting, but of a modern variety.

Another highlight was the free walking tour - no set cost but you give a tip at the end of what you think they are worth. It was good as I got to learn a lot of the Madrid's history plus got to go places I wouldn't have found otherwise. More information is available at www.mymadridfreetour.com . I believe that there are a number of European cities in which these type of walking tours now run.

Of course food and drink was a highlight. As the days were still sunny with blue skies, but nights chilly, cafes and restaurants still had outdoor tables. So it was very pleasant to sample a red wine, nibble on some tapas and watch the world go by. Also managed to find a Thai restaurant and an Indian restaurant. The latter is always on the list as there is no Indian restaurant in Rabat, instead it means a trip to Casablanca.

It was nice to have a few days out of Morocco, wander the shops, eat and drink well as well as see a city I had not been to before. The downer was spending 45 minutes waiting to get through immigration when back in Casablanca!!!

The Ornament of the World

2007-10-28T10:20:00.000Z

Last week at bookgroup, our book for discussion was The Ornament of the World by Maria Rosa Menocal, which looked at how Muslims, Jews, and Christians created a culture of tolerance in medieval Spain. It covers the times from the 700s to 1500s.
Although I found the book hard going, probably because I had not visited any of the cities mentioned - including Toledo, Granada and Seville; and the important historical people mentioned in the book were not ones that I was familiar with. A distinct lack of European history in my past I feel.
However there were many interesting points in the book:

the importance of Arabic as language of learning, a language of poetry and a language of translation, thus enabling scientific works from the Greeks to become available to a wider audience
the fact that Arabic as a language was learned by all, whether Muslim, Jewish or Christian
the belief and ability that people could hold opposing views at the same time, especially in terms of philosophical ideals where scientific evidence may have contradicted long-held beliefs
North African invaders, the Berbers, were portrayed as barbaric and intolerant, in part I suspect because they could not hold opposing views at the same time. Were they like this?
religions overlapped particularly in the use of churches, synagogues and mosques. Even today in southern Spain it is possible to see Christian churches with features of mosques. The architectural features appealed across religious barriers.

However, the major focus was that in this age when the people of different religions could live harmoniously together, respecting and learning from each others culture and language, that learning thrived, and economically so did the culture. Certainly this is a message relevant in todays sometimes divided world.
The author's statement that it is not evident in the world today created much discussion at the bookgroup. Many felt that here in Morocco today is a culture that is tolerant of different religions, where people of different religions live together in harmony. The Jewish have a long history in Morocco where they have worked together with the Arabs and Berbers. Here in Rabat today, not only are there many mosques, but also a number of Christian churches in which services are performed in French, English and Spanish, and there is also a synagogue in downtown Rabat.
One thing the book did inspire in me is a wish to visit the towns of the Golden Age, these famous towns in southern Spain, especially the Alhambra. Will the future allow this? Only time will tell.

CouchSurfing

2007-10-19T18:08:00.000Z

Well I have just had my first experience of CouchSurfing. What is it you may well ask?

From their website, "CouchSurfing is a worldwide network for making connections between travelers and the local communities they visit". What this simply means is that you join Couch Surfing via their website, offering your services to a fellow traveller, either as a host (providing a bed) or a guide or just to meet for a drink. The other side is that once registered, you are also able to access the offers from other CouchSurfers from all over the world.

A Dutch guy has just spent 2 nights staying with me after making contact through CouchSurfing. On the first evening I took him on a brief sightseeing tour of Rabat - tour Hassan, the Oudayas and the medina, finishing off with dinner at El Bahia, a Moroccan restaurant in the medina walls, where he paid for the meal. As the host provides a bed, it is encouraged that the visiting CouchSurfer pays for a meal for the host.

Initially I was not sure of the security of the situation, letting a strange person into the apartment. But as he head, you can sum up most people in the first 5 minutes of meeting them. With an initial meeting outside the house, there is still an opportunity to pull out if you feel uncomfortable. Checking out the person's details on the website also provides a wealth of information as people who register are encouraged to fill out biographical, interests and philosophy of life information.

The whole CouchSurfing experience provides an opportunity to mix with travellers, learn about other cultures, share what you know of you local area and promote cross-cultural awareness.

After this interesting experience, I would certainly host others, and if the situation arises I would also make use of it when travelling myself.

Fes Cooking Class

2007-10-09T19:26:00.000Z

One of my main aims in going to Fes was to do a Moroccan cooking class and learn how to cook a tagine, and that I did. There was a link on the Dar El Hana website to Cooking Lessons and I am lucky I cooked on it as it led to Lahcen and his cooking classes. As we had booked in advance, Lahcen met us at 9.30 am Dar El Hana and took us shopping in the Municipal Marche in central Fes, as they have fish for sale there on Saturdays. After much discussion we (the 4 of us) decided to cook harira (the traditional Moroccan tomato-based soup), lamb tagine with apricots and almonds, stuffed calamari and for dessert, crepes with cheese, raisins and almonds. We trailed Lahcen around the market as he checked out the seafood, then bought vegetables, dried fruit, spices and a huge chunk of lamb shoulder. Although the spices are in different bags on the stall, they are bought and mixed together in a small piece of paper in which they are wrapped. We also got chick peas that had already been soaked from the spice stall along with some cinnamon sticks. Celery here is also very weird, more like a herb with thin stems rather than the thick stems we are used too, but it does still have the celery taste. The really good think about the trip to the market was that we could ask questions, "What is that fruit? What is that used for? What is in that pot?" Being Berber who grew up in the Atlas mountains and having spend time cooking in a number of restaurants, Lahcen has an excellent knowledge of local foods and very good English in which to explain things. Along the way he told us a Fig Desert:

Fig Dessert
Fresh Figs
Honey
Thyme

Drizzle whole figs with honey, sprinkle with thyme and roast. Serve cut in half with creme fraiche or on their own.

Now all I have to do is try it, but the fig season is nearly over.

He then took us back to Riad Tafilalet where we would be doing the cooking. We decided we would like to prepare to eat in the evening so we didn't have to return until 4.00 pm after we had had a mint tea and some almond bread in the riad courtyard and experienced the view from the rooftop terrace.
We finally got back at 4.30 after having trouble catching taxis and it was downstairs to the kitchen and on with the white, cooks jackets. Lahcen guided as we chopped, grated (did you know you can grate tomatoes), diced, fried, stirred, blanched, soaked and scraped the meat and vegetables. Finally the harira, tagine and calamari were on cooking. The tagine in a pressure cooker as is the norm here unless the meat is marinated the night before. Tumeric (or saffron), ginger and black pepper made up the spices in the tagine. Mmm, the smell was good.

Soaked raisins and crushed almonds were then mixed with the goat's cheese and used as filling in the crepes that were then rolled up, topped with melted butter and sesame seeds before being baked in the oven.

Finally all was ready and we went upstairs to our lamp-lit table in the central courtyard, where the fountain tinkled in the background to await the feast. Eat to much?, of course I did but the food tasted great then we had an impromptu Berber drum and singing performance by Lahcen and his friend.

What a great idea!

Weekend in Fes

2007-10-07T18:44:00.000Z

Just got back from a great weekend in Fes with some friends. I hadn't been there since 2000 when I visited Morocco on holidays so wanted an update, as well as the opportunity to do a Moroccan cooking class, which I will cover in my next entry. Decided to stay at Dar El Hana as it was run by an Australian. I thought it would be nice to meet one as I rarely see them here in Morocco. Josephine met as at the medina car park and took us to the guesthouse where she had organised dinner to be ready and waiting for us. It was 9 o'clock by the time we got there as the train was late (a side effect of Ramadan I believe). Anyway we got the full Moroccan experience - Harira (a soup), a HUGE plate of mixed salads, lamb and prune tagine with fresh fruit and chocolate for dessert. We also took along a bottle of wine, not knowing we could buy it there. Anyway, it was a pleasant evening and we ate on the rooftop terrace by lamp light. Very quiet and relaxing, which is a great way to wind down after a busy week.
Here's the salad!

Dar El Hana has only 3 guest rooms sleeping a maximum of 8 and we had the two on the second floor, one twin and one triple. Typically there had tiled floors with rugs; hand-painted octagonal tables as bedside tables; bedspreads made of the plant silk; wooden shutters for the windows looking out over the central courtyard with wrought-iron frames around the windows and forming the balcony balastrades. A very comfortable place to stay and very centrally located in the medina.We spent some time wandering around the medina, and did so without a guide. One innovation that has made life much easier for tourists is a series of colour-coded thematic tourist circuits around the medina. We followed part of the pink one - the Traditional Crafts Circuit, and also part of the Dark Blue one - Monuments and Souks circuit. There is an accompanying guidebook that can be bought for 100 dirham. Highlights included the henna souk and Nejjarine complex. So much stunning architecture.

Might the central medina was a hive of activity around the Qaraouiyine Mosque as renovations have to finished this week so it can be officially reopened by the King, with its opening coinciding with the ending of Ramadan. Never have I seen some much painting, scraping and varnishing. Fes certainly will be looking its best this week.

Where to next?

2007-09-26T18:23:00.000Z

Having spent my 2 month Summer break travelling around Eastern Europe, I am now planning other short breaks to make the most of my long weekends and breaks during my last year in Morocco. The weekend after next, four of us are going to Fez and doing a Moroccan cooking class as I want to learn how to cook a tagine before I leave. Plus I haven't been back to Fez since 2000 so I want to see how it has changed. I don't think it will have become unrecognisable like parts of Marrakesh.

Over Christmas/New Year I am going to Mali as I've always wanted to go to West Africa, not that I have any idea what was the inspiration. As it is just over a 3 hour flight away, it is too good of opportunity to miss. So Timbuktu, here I come.

Having found a travel writer's course that is happening for 3 days over a weekend in November in Marrakesh, I am debating whether or not to go. I'm sure the inspiration and what I would learn from the instructors would help me get back into it more efficiently, BUT do I want to spend that much money as it isn't cheap. BUT maybe I should spoil myself for once. Anyway I can think about it for a couple of weeks then still get the early payment discount.

Then there are the long weekends next year - what shall I do? Essouria is definitely on the list and . . . . I'll have to think about that.

Thank goodness I don't drive here

2007-09-20T18:44:00.000Z

Every day at lunch this week as a group of us teachers sit at the picnic table with our home-packed lunches, I hear the driving stories. This week it is the drivers, the pedestrians, the police and especially the male drivers. The reason for so many stories is RAMADAN.

By the late afternoon when many drive home to the beach it is nearing 12 hours since most Moroccans have eaten or had a drink. But more importantly they haven't had a cigarette, no coffee and no alcohol, so withdrawal symptoms are striking. As well there is a lack of concentration, lack of energy, tiredness and of particular concern, a very short temper.

According to many, one of the favourites for upset drivers is to brake suddenly in front of the car that annoys them. A really sensible option when travelling at 110 km/hr on the motorway. Then there was the driver of a motor scooter who had stopped traffic and was ranting and raving at a car driver who "dared" to toot his horn at him!

This is all in the first week of Ramadan, so after the weekend I will probably have some more good stories to tell. Hopefully they will not involve pain or suffering.

In Morocco by Edith Wharton

2007-09-12T18:04:00.000Z

Last weekend was the first meeting of bookgroup for the new school year., where we discussed In Morocco by Edith Wharton. Written in 1919 after her short trip around Morocco 2 years earlier, the book is sometimes lauded as the first travel guide to Morocco. Certainly a woman before her time travelling as a lone woman, she did have the support and company of the French Protectorate of the time - a driver, an interpreter, a guide and accommodation in some of the best places in Morocco courtesy of the French. This included the Bahia Palace in Marrakesh, which is still stunning today.

Not suprisingly she lauded the work of the French, and yes a couple of there major works - the railway system and the roads including across the Atlas, are still lauded today. However, she also looks down on, and is critical of the local people, their crumbling buildings, lack of motivation and particularly the bare, barren landscape.

However the reading of the book did set us to thinking about where in Rabat is the Pasha's Palace and the Medersa. Our decision was that the medersa is today one of the museums adjoining the Andulusian or Rose Gardens inside the kasbah walls. Meanwhile the consensus was that the Pasha's Palace is now Cafe Maure.

One other area of particular interest was what was visible at the Chellah in Rabat and Volubulis, prior to the extensive archeological excavations that have since occured. At the Chellah, there is mention of the Islamic structures but no mention of the Roman ruins or those from the Phonecians. Volubulis of today would bear little similarity to the one she saw. There were no high arches, no mosaics and few stone columns.As Rabat residents, the book had more interest to us than it would to the general public, especially as we'd all travelled to the same places Edith visited 90 years ago. It was encouraging to see, once I checked the copy I'd bought here in Morocco for A$6, that a number of books about Morocco written in English that may still be of interest to those readers of the English language are now being published in Morocco since copyright has expired.

Ramadan is soon - How do I know?

2007-09-08T19:34:00.000Z

Ramadan begins the middle of this week. In the days prior it is a time for me to stock up on wine (as the wine shops are usually closed during Ramadan), work out the best way to deal with students who haven't eaten or drunk anything all day and visit restaurants that may close during Ramadan.

Here's how I know Ramadan is approaching:

there are large boxes of dates at the entrance to the supermarket
Direct Usine is crowded as people buy new plates, cups and glasses
the students remind me, not just once but many times
the medina has many carts, pulled by men, that are packed high with boxes of dates
in the supermarket people are buying very large containers of honey
the bottleshop section is full of expats stocking up
I start to here of shops that will be closed

Ramadan certainly does make life interesting in Morocco! I know it is here when all the coffee shops are closed as I walk to work in the mornings, no tables on the footpaths, and no cups of coffee in sight.

International Blog Day - I'm late

2007-09-03T19:22:00.000Z

Apparently August 31st was International Blog Day, and I just found out, but better late than never. So here are some of my favourite blogs:

Chaotic Life - a blog of a friend of mine, it is a never-ending saga of the dramas of everyday life. As a writer, she even makes these everyday events interesting. Plus it keeps me up to date with what is happening in her life.

The Journeys of Captain Oddsocks - I only recently found this one, but it written by an Australian who runs a hostel in Olomouc in the Czech Republic where I stayed on my recent holiday. It has lots of fun photos and information about the Czech republic and life in it.

Cat in Rabat and The Morocco Report are two Moroccan-based blogs written by expats who have both unfortunately left the country for greener pastures. Many hungry cats are now wandering the streets of Agdal.

Andy Rouse for some stunning wildlife photos. If only I could take photographs like that!

After writing this I have decided I need to do some more explorations in the blog world, so stay tuned for an update.

Agdal Changes

2007-08-27T18:08:00.000Z

Wandering around the streets of Agdal since my return, I am amazed at the changes. Hard to believe but there are even more coffee shops/cafes/restaurants. On Atlas a new restaurant, Findi, has opened which has nice snack-type food such as sandwiches, pizza, brochettes, pasta, panini and salads. I had a nice meal there the other day. Just down the street a little further another similar place has opened but haven't had time to try it. Next door the coffee shop has undergone renovation.

Stepping over one block to Ave. de France, a Venezia Ice has opened with the carpet and menu lectern on the street. Pinchos has opened a second shop, Pinchos Pizza, next door while further along a nice looking juice bar has opened with a couple of tables and chairs inside. Still need time to try these out.

On the other hand I here the excellent French restaurant that I frequent on a regular basis, 81/2, is closing. Hopefully it is only for renovations but will need to find out more. Hopefully will dine there on Saturday night, and not for the last time.

While on the topic of food, I also need to go and investigate the three Agdal wine shops that Cat in Rabat mentioned on her blog. Oh I am going to miss her witty and informative posts.

Terres des femmes - Women of the Earth

2007-08-23T17:31:00.001Z

Yesterday I went and visited the pottery shop, Terres des femmes (Women of the Earth) at Sale.
This pottery shop sells traditional pottery made by village women in northern Morocco who have been encouraged to produce traditional pottery by a volunteer group behind the project. These same volunteers not only run the shop, but also drive to these often remote villages to collect the pottery.

Using the available soil, the pottery has a natural feel and is usually decorated in brown and black geometric designs. Completely natural, these dyes come from ground up leaves and rocks and are painted onto the pots with a donkey hair that acts as a paint brush.

Not only has this project aided in the survival of a traditional craft, but has also provided the women with money and independence. Even the young boys have started to get in on the act, making pottery animals to be sold. While some of the girls who don't want to make pots because it makes their hands large and ugly, are instead doing embroidery, which is also sold at the shop.

The shop can be found at Extension du complexe des potiers a Oulja-Sale, or on the Rabat side of the Sale Pottery Complex.

Back "Home"

2007-08-21T20:14:00.000Z

From high above, first I saw the estuary at Larache, then the lagoon at Moulay Bousselham, the Bou Regreg and Rabat, then reality struck as Casablanca and surrounds were blanketed in smog. Back on land, it was the pedestrians walking on the road, the crazy drivers on the road and the shepherds with their sheep that reminded me, I'm back "home", back in Morocco. But at least my luggage did arrive this time.

Back in Rabat, Atlas wasn't the "crazy street" it normally is on Saturday nights, my favourite butcher and hanoot were closed for a few days and yet more cafes/restaurants have opened up in Agdal. Mind you, some have been under construction and renovation for months and months. All is quiet as August is the holiday month, Moroccans living in Europe come back to visit, and those living in the city head to the beaches (a good place to avoid this month unless you love crowds).

Now as reality comes seeping back in, I have to consider the return to work. Time to get organised, focused, but I am sure I will fit in some time for reading and sorting out my travel memoirs and photographs.

Transylvania - Dracula country!

2007-08-19T15:35:00.000Z

Here among rugged mountainsof Transylvania; spires and cobblestones form part of the old settlements, around which vampire legends abound. It is the latter (and THE CASTLE) that led to its Dracula links.

The highlights:
Sighisoara is a hilltop fortress, which is the birthplace of Vlad Tepes, sometimes called the "real" Dracula being renowned for activities such as driving stakes through people! The house in which he was born is a restaurant today. With a Saxon clock tower and Gothic churches and a huge hilltop cemetery, my visit seemed dominated by music as I attended 2 classical music concerts and many young people were carrying around and playing violins.
Brasov's old town centre is full of 800 year old buildings including the Black Church. But the reason most people stay is to visit the nearby Bran Castle - Dracula's castle. Attractive from the distance on its hilltop, inside there are no evident Dracula links as you get pushed along in the crush of people following the one-way tourist route throught he castle.

More interesting is the ruins of Rasnov Fortress, which is also nearby. A stunning location on the mountain top, one can easily see why only once were its defences broken.
Not actually part of Transylvania, but also visited as a day trip from Brasov was Sinaia, home to the stunning Peles Castle. Let you imagine run riot when the word castle is mentioned, the image produced is probably something likes Peles. So much ornamentation, gold, carved wood, venetian glass, marble with statues and frescoes outside. Incredible.

Stepping Back in Time

2007-08-06T06:34:00.000Z

No; I haven't found the way to travel in time but instead have been travelling through northern Romania. Time spent there is really like stepping back in time, especially watching the farmers at work. Here they use horse and carts for transport, still cut the grass with scythes and use rakes and pitchforks to turn it over for drying. Not a tractor in sight until I travelled further south. Such back-breaking hard work but maybe they will start to catch up with the present now they are in the EU.

Outside the Bar/Cafe in Salva

Also had some scenic, but very slow, train trips winding through the mountains, past small villages and plots of crops, over high bridges and through long tunnels. It is a good way to get a look at life in Romania outside the cities. The trains run on time but are not in good condition - no air conditioning so swelter on the hot days.

Winding through the mountains in north west Romania

Went to Sapinta to see the Merry Cemetery, distinguished by the colourful metre-high crosses that are at the top of all the graves. These crosses are painted in bright colours including pictures that typify the person's life and may also show how they died plus an inscription about their life, death and the people they leave behind. Only existing in this form since 1935, many people dies young and many died violent deaths such as getting shot while swimming across the river (it is also the border), getting run over by a tractor, hit by a taxi and struck by lightning while in bed. It was an interesting but bizarre place in the grounds of a church nut also full of tour groups who stop off as they pass by.

The Merry Cemetery

The Painted Monasteries near Suceava were the other highlight of my travel in the north. From the 1500s, these churches are not only decorated with pictures on the inside but also on the outside. Most pictures relate to stories in the bible or people from the bible or saints, but also include the siege of Constantinople. They also include local touched like including local musical instruments, dress, food etc. The outside ones are very colourful while the ones inside are much darker. Black from smoking candles has obscured those inside for many centuries but they are slowly being revealed at a cost of 700 euros per square metre. I went on a guided tour which was great as it meant I found out a lot more detail about the pictures and their history. Many of the monasteries till have nuns in the adjoining buildings today and they are the ones collecting the entrance fees and leading some groups around.

Sucevita Monastery

Detail of Voronet Monastery

Hot, hot Hungary

2007-07-27T07:05:00.000Z

And it is the weather I am talking about having sweltered through my time in Hungary, except for the last two days. Fortunately after the two trains I arrived on, the rest were air-conditioned.

Started in Sopron, a small town on the Austria-Hungary border, half way between Budapest and Vienna. It was so small I didn't even see a McDonalds there (only place so far I think). It has a beautiful Old Town with still much of the centre surrounded by original Roman walls. Most of the buildings are homes to the local residents with only the odd restaurant and museum here and there. Not many tourists but the highlight for most is to climb up the fire tower that is built above one of the entrances to the Old Town. Nice views but unique because it is built on Roman foundations, then in two different styles as it was made taller at different times. They also had a very interesting archeological museum. Need museums with a difference now as I have seen so many. There is also a Goat Church, presently under renovation, that has a cavorting goat in bas relief above the door. A very quiet, relaxing place to stay and the Pension I stayed in was very nice with a great breakfast.

A local speciality

Then followed the border south east, through agricultural lands very much reminiscent
of the Wimmera or Western District plains in Victoria, to Pecs in the south of the country. The most bizarre building here was the mosque church on the main square. Originally a church was built on the site, then when the Turks invaded they knocked down the church and used the bricks to build a mosque, then when the Turks left it again became a church with the minaret removed. Other sections have since been added. So it still has the painted cupola traditional to mosques, mosque lamps and some other traditional mosque features. Bizarre. Also in Pecs there are a number of Roman ruins visible but unfortunately the museum with the best examples didn't open while I was there and I couldn't find the Porcelain Museum either. The other two interesting things I saw were the synagogue and cathedral.

The Monastery-Church

Then it was on to Budapest, Hungary's capital, with a very attractive location on the Danube River. There is the castle area on one side of the river and the Old Town on the other. Lots and lots of tourists, including tour groups on buses and also groups touring on huge boats along the Danube. A very stunning Basilica, where last night a concert was held in the square in front - a full orchestra playing. With so many museums, the only one I went to was the National Museum where I learnt something about Hungary's history. I didn't realise that Hungary has been a country, and sometimes powerful one at that, since the 9th century. And for trivia - did you know Hungary has used the metric system since 1875? There was also a very attractive synagogue here, one that is more attractive than most. An attractive city, but I think I prefer Prague maybe because I visited it first.

Changing of the guard, Prague Castle

Fisherman's Bastion, Prague Castle

Slovakia Sample

2007-07-25T06:41:00.000Z

Had I had better weather in Zakopane, Poland I would have done a day trip into the High Tatras in northern Slovakia but that wasn't to be. So instead I just had 4 days in south west Slovakia, Trencin and Bratislava to be precise.

I decided to stop over in Trencin on my way to Bratislava after reading some good reports about it. A small town, I was struck by the picturesque and commanding and castle that towered over the town as i arrived by train. There was a resemblance to some castles seen in picture books or even fancy decorated cakes. So I trekked up there to have a look after arriving to join a tour in Slovakian - so didn't understand a thing that was said but got to see inside all areas of the castle. lots of art works on display but also history and archaeological relics from digs in the area. There were some English explanations for the displays fortunately so was actually quite interesting. Besides Trencin has an attractive Old Town (as most places in eastern Europe do), relaxed atmosphere, cafes so just wandered around and had a nice meal there.

Trencin Castle

Bratislava is bigger and much more touristy - the highlights there are a 4-poster bed castle, which wasn't that inspiring. I visited a museum of clocks, which had some interesting things especially tiny sundials but lacked specific details and I think the clock museum I saw in New Zealand was better. Spent one day taking a short cruise down the Danube River to Devin Castle, which is still in ruins but such a strategic location. there was walls, some windows, arches and foundations but it was so hot that my exploration was limited. Then took the boat back again. The drama with this was when we lefty and went under a few bridges we turned around, went back to the starting point and changed boats as the motor on ours was broken!!!! Bratislava is not a place I would recommend highly. two days there was plenty.

Bratislava Castle from the Danube
The most photographed sight in Bratislava - a bronze statue

Last Czech stop - Olomouc

2007-07-24T07:13:00.000Z

I returned to the Czech Republic for one last stop before heading onto Slovakia and Hungary. Stopped in Olomouc, sometimes called "Little Prague", but attractive in its own right. It does have lots of beautiful old buildings as was capital of Morovia for many years. It has a huge main square with a town hall that has an astronomical clock that has been "communised" - communist workers rather than the apostles parade. Also in the main square is the Holy Trinity Column, which all towns seem to have (but not sure why). What made this one different was that there was a small chapel in the base.

There is also a very good Archdioscean Museum only opened a year which puts together the artworks, ivory sculptures, religious sculptures etc. collected by the Archbishops over time in addition to the archeological remains that have found in excavations there , which show there is actually a castle underneath the present buildings. One of the best is a small piece of tibia bone from an ox there was an engraved warrior drawn on it with eastern features about 1000 years old. Plus a local weaver had done a copy of the Baileau Tapestry and it was on display. Very worthwhile and free on Wednesdays and Sundays.

Then there was a great little cafe that had the most wonderful chocolate pie and white chocolate pie. Still wonderful even though major tram line renovations were going on out the front producing lots of noise and dust. (I forgot to photograph it though it seems!)

Krakow

2007-07-15T16:42:00.000Z

It was good to spend some days in the one place, Krakow. My first shock was all the English I heard while walking around, so many tourists with many English speakers. Krakow is a very pretty town with lots of colourful old buildings that have not been rebuilt like in Warsaw and Wroclaw. It has a great town square with an old hall in the middle plus a bell tower and a cathedral on one corner with outdoor cafes and restaurants encircling the square.

There is also a castle on a hilltop overlooking both the centre of town and the river, what a location. It, as in so much of Poland, has a stunning cathedral which also has a huge bell up the top. I also got to see the state rooms for free, as free on Sunday. I liked the friezes around the ceilings and the wooden ceilings in some of them and the 'framed' ceiling paintings in some of them and huge tapestries including ones featuring the building and loading of the ark. Also visited the Crown Treasury and Weaponry - so many swords, cannons, guns and armour in one place but also some absolutely stunning plates, cups and clocks made from gold. Both the weapons and the riches were decorated with gems and carving and painting. Wow.
Had the confronting and very sobering experience of visiting Auschwitz-Birkenhou concentration and extermination camps. At Auschwitz it was the collection of 43 000 pairs of shoes and false legs and crutches amongst other things that brougt it home. Also the photographs of some interred and the short time they actually survived there, either being sent to the gas chambers or dying of illness or starvation. The film I saw at the start was very confronting, so much so that children under 14 can't watch it. In contrast it was the size of Birkenhau - it is huge, and the chimneys being all that remain of many of the huts plus the size of the partially demolished crematoria and gas chambers. I can see why it will hopefully encourage visitors to do everything in their power to prevent this ever happening again.
Following on from this I visited the Jewish Quarter in Krakow where there was a Krakow-focused Holocaust Museum, particulalry interesting because of the personal stories it told. Some so sad and some with hope and amazing survival.

On the other extreme I also visited the Salt Mines where salt used to be dug from underground. But while mining the salt, the miners also created lots of salt statues of people and scenes as well as a chapel and most amazinglz a church which was entirely made of salt - the altar, bas reliefs on the walls, a statue of Pope John Paul II after his visit and statues. Amazing. What impressed me the most was the fact that miners did it rather than artists.

Photographs

2007-07-11T15:15:00.001Z

I have now put some photographs back on some of the previous posts if you want to go back and have a look. Here's a few more.