Seville - Part 1

For me, the one attraction that drew me to Seville was the Giralda minaret turned bell tower in the cathedral. Having already spent so much time in Morocco and having seen both Tour Hassan in Rabat and Kotoubia Mosque in Marrakesh, I wanted to see the third in the trio of minarets built by the Almohad Sultan Yacoub el-Mansour in the 12th century. Kotoubia was the prototype, Tour Hassan was unfinished due to el-Mansour’s death and the Giralda got recycled!
Here are photos of the 3 minarets. Can you tell which is which??


The mosque and minaret may be no more in Seville, but the past use is still very evident today. The minaret shape cannot be camouflaged, while many of the adornments remain although the arch-shaped decoration, have now become windows with a bell tower being added to the top. One interesting option after paying the hefty entry fee of 8 euros, was to walk up the ramp to the top of the bell tower/minaret from where there was excellent views across Seville. As with Tour Hassan, a ramp rather than steps was used to give access to the top so that the caller of the muezzin could ride his horse to the top for the required 5 times a day! The back exterior of the cathedral also clearly showed that it was once a mosque with the austere plain walls in a basic block shape. Many additions had been made to the building – the front and above to turn it into a cathedral although I must say that I didn’t find the interior particularly inspiring, more a waste of money when compared to the cathedral in Granada.

From Rabat to Granada

From Rabat to Tangier it was about a 5 hour trip with no changes of train, arriving about 1 pm. Then came the saga of getting a taxi from the train station to the port. Of course a tout approached me and said 50 dirhams to the port in a Grand Taxi but I told him I wanted a petit taxi so I joined all the locals out on the street corner in front of the station. No lines or order of any form here, but instead it is all for oneself. Some taxis that already have one passenger in stop to see if anyone else is going in the same direction. Eventually I got one on my own to the port and the driver gave me a guided tour of Tangier (in French) as we drove along - the Grand Socco is up there, the Kasbah there and that is the Hotel Continental . . . . . . And most surprising of all is that I understood most of what he was saying! On arrival at the port I gave him 20 dirhams, which was how much I wanted to pay and since he was busy negotiating with a couple of potential passengers he only looked when I put in in his hand and didn’t argue!

A simple task to get the ticket - I got a return one for 760 dirham as that got a 10% discount. Then through immigration to line up next to the ferry to get on. While waiting I meth this American guy, who had also got on the train in Rabat, and talked to him while on the ferry trip. He is a post graduate student who had been awarded a fellowship to come to Morocco for one month and study Arabic, while the weekends were spend sightseeing around Morocco - the desert, Fes, Marrakesh etc. leaving about 2.15, the ferry crossing was smooth with blue seas and blue skies but because of the one hour time change it arrived in Tarifa at almost 4. It is theoretically a 35 min crossing.

I spent the night in Tarifa staying at Hotel/Pension Focunda where I got a room for 30 euros walking in off the street, which was cheaper than normal price. My room had an attached bathroom but most in the hotel had shared facilities. It had a very central location. I couldn’t believe how touristy Tarifa now is, but it is probably 3 years since I last passed through there. Every third shop seems to be a kite surfing shop offering lessons and gear. Plus lots of cafes and other shops but the town has a nice relaxing feel about it and the old part is fun to explore.

Leaving Tarifa early next morning, I caught the 8 am public bus to Algeciras, then a 12 noon train from there to Granada. The bus trip from Tarifa only took about 30 min, past the wind turbines and even through the clouds for a short while. I had a wander around Algeciras as had plenty of time - the port there is huge!!

The train trip to Granada took 4.5 hours and can be divided into two halves: the first half to Ronda and the second half to Granada. Most of the first half involved winding through the mountains, through at least 10 tunnels, past flowing mountain streams bordered by baby pink and crimson flowering oleander, through villages with two storey white-washed houses with tiled roofs and stopping at small stations where there buildings were always white with mustard trim.

Every station was clearly signposted and sometimes we had to wait for another train, with names such as Gaucin, Cortes de la Frontera, Jimera de Libar and Benaojan. There was a couple of structures we travelled over that I would call a cross between a tunnel and a bridge - closed in on one side and the roof, the other side was semi-open with archhways looking out across the scenery. We past a few cork trees, where all the lower bark had been removed (to make cork) revealing a dark tan layer underneath unlike the rough grey bark above. There were also many gum trees, some with pale yellow flowers. A very scenic section of the trip.

Ronda I had visited previously, a lovely white village but the train takes about 30 minutes to wind up to the plateau on which Ronda is found. Leaving Ronda and almost all the way to Granada, the rolling hills were home to thousands of olive trees: olives in rows, olives in grids, single olive trees, clumps of three olive trees, recently planted olive trees - they just went on and on. Now I can see why the production of olive oill is such a big industry for Spain. Mind you in the stony, dry, sandy soil I am not sure they could grow anything else anyway!

After a very pleasant train trip, I finally arrived in Granada where the next saga was to find the hotel I had booked. That is an another story The train was very comfortable, air-conditioned, fast but no food or drink was available on the train. A highly recommended train trip and it cost just under 20 euros.

Tour Hassan, Rabat

Yesterday I visited Tour Hassan for probably the sixth time, this time with 70 thirteen and fourteen year old music students who were visiting from Europe, Asia and the Middle East. Tour Hassan is a place I love going back to as it has great views over Rabat and Sale and incredible craftsmanship in the Mausoleum of Mohammed V.

Tour Hassan, or the Hassan Tower, refers to the 44 metre high unfinished minaret that was to be the highest in the Muslim world when it was begun in 1195. Both the minaret and mosque were to remain unfinished due to the death of Yacoub al-Mansour, the ruler at the time. The mosque itself was destroyed by the earthquake of 1755 that also caused so much damage to Lisbon. Besides the minaret, all that remains today are the mosque pillars.

Adjoining the mosque ruins, is the more recently constructed Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the grandfather of the present king, Mohammed VI. Completed in 1971, this ornate marble structure has interior walls covered in zellij where tiny tiles are combined into mosaics that form intricate geometric patterns. Above the domed ceiling has ornately carved wood with coloured glass inserts. Whilst admiring all the wonderful decoration, it is worthwhile looking down onto the onyx tomb of Mohammed V in the centre of the room, while off to the side is his son, the previous king, Hassan II.

Outside are stunning zellij fountains, huge ornate metal doors and giant mosque lamps.

While guarding the entrances are red and green clad guards on horses. The changing of the guards ceremony occurs roughly every hour as it cannot be easy for the horses to stand in one spot for that length of time, even though they have sand pits in which to stand. Additional guards stand at each of the four entrances to the mausoleum and at each of the four corners inside the mausoleum.

Bouregreg Development

Rabat is situated on the south side of the Bouregreg River where it enters the Atlantic Ocean. Its twin city, and more conservative city, Sale is opposite on the northern bank of the river. Sale was once home to the Sale Rovers, a feared group of pirates who roamed the seas as far north as Iceland from the 16th to 19th centuries. Their booty included gold and people, who often then got sold into slavery.

Not long after I arrived in January 2006, the craftsman huts and shops and the grain market that bordered the river bank on the Rabat side were knocked down for redevelopment of the Bouregreg. With money from the Middle East, it is being turned into an area of glitzy shops, expensive hotels, fancy restaurants and even a marina for the expected expensive boats. It is certainly not being developed for the every day Moroccans. Here is how the marina looked yesterday, with the white buildings of Sale in the background.

On the Rabat side a promenade already follows the river edge. Paved footpaths bordered by tall palms link Tour Hassan to the Kasbah and Oudaya. It certainly is a pleasant area for pedestrians to walk along during the day or evening.

Hopefully the small, colourful wooden boats that once took people back and forth across the river will be able to continue to ply their trade. At present the drop-off point on the Sale side is far from buildings and the town itself because of all the earth works and reclaimed land.

It will be interesting to see what the end result is.

Crazy Street

Rue Atlas is the street I live on. It is one of the main streets in the Rabat suburb of Agdal and recently it became a one-way street as they work on the new tramway. Instead of Atlas it should be called "Crazy Street", especially at 8 or 9 pm when it is absolutely crazy. Being driven down it at this time is like an obstacle course - cars double parked, often on both sides; cars reversing down the street; pedestrians strolling across the street without looking even if the traffic light says not too; car horns tooting; cars turning from the centre lane; cars parked on the footpath; people walking on the street because of the cars parked on the footpath; blaring music as the local hoons do laps past McDonalds; and so it goes on; speeding up to run the red light. . . . . . . . This is when I am thankful that I don't drive in Morocco (in addition to them driving on the wrong side of the road! Unfortunately it is not only on this one street that this happens, but rather on roads and streets and highways throughout the country. I am surprised the high road toll is not even higher. Thank goodness for the courtesy of many of the drivers.

Mind you when I walk down the street at 7 am on the way to work, or on a Sunday morning I sometimes have to remind myself that this is the same street. It is so quiet, with the resident cats being the most active sight. But then I should be thankful for the peace and quiet.

CouchSurfing

Well I have just had my first experience of CouchSurfing. What is it you may well ask?

From their website, "CouchSurfing is a worldwide network for making connections between travelers and the local communities they visit". What this simply means is that you join Couch Surfing via their website, offering your services to a fellow traveller, either as a host (providing a bed) or a guide or just to meet for a drink. The other side is that once registered, you are also able to access the offers from other CouchSurfers from all over the world.

A Dutch guy has just spent 2 nights staying with me after making contact through CouchSurfing. On the first evening I took him on a brief sightseeing tour of Rabat - tour Hassan, the Oudayas and the medina, finishing off with dinner at El Bahia, a Moroccan restaurant in the medina walls, where he paid for the meal. As the host provides a bed, it is encouraged that the visiting CouchSurfer pays for a meal for the host.

Initially I was not sure of the security of the situation, letting a strange person into the apartment. But as he head, you can sum up most people in the first 5 minutes of meeting them. With an initial meeting outside the house, there is still an opportunity to pull out if you feel uncomfortable. Checking out the person's details on the website also provides a wealth of information as people who register are encouraged to fill out biographical, interests and philosophy of life information.

The whole CouchSurfing experience provides an opportunity to mix with travellers, learn about other cultures, share what you know of you local area and promote cross-cultural awareness.

After this interesting experience, I would certainly host others, and if the situation arises I would also make use of it when travelling myself.

Agdal Changes

Wandering around the streets of Agdal since my return, I am amazed at the changes. Hard to believe but there are even more coffee shops/cafes/restaurants. On Atlas a new restaurant, Findi, has opened which has nice snack-type food such as sandwiches, pizza, brochettes, pasta, panini and salads. I had a nice meal there the other day. Just down the street a little further another similar place has opened but haven't had time to try it. Next door the coffee shop has undergone renovation.

Stepping over one block to Ave. de France, a Venezia Ice has opened with the carpet and menu lectern on the street. Pinchos has opened a second shop, Pinchos Pizza, next door while further along a nice looking juice bar has opened with a couple of tables and chairs inside. Still need time to try these out.

On the other hand I here the excellent French restaurant that I frequent on a regular basis, 81/2, is closing. Hopefully it is only for renovations but will need to find out more. Hopefully will dine there on Saturday night, and not for the last time.

While on the topic of food, I also need to go and investigate the three Agdal wine shops that Cat in Rabat mentioned on her blog. Oh I am going to miss her witty and informative posts.

Back "Home"

From high above, first I saw the estuary at Larache, then the lagoon at Moulay Bousselham, the Bou Regreg and Rabat, then reality struck as Casablanca and surrounds were blanketed in smog. Back on land, it was the pedestrians walking on the road, the crazy drivers on the road and the shepherds with their sheep that reminded me, I'm back "home", back in Morocco. But at least my luggage did arrive this time.

Back in Rabat, Atlas wasn't the "crazy street" it normally is on Saturday nights, my favourite butcher and hanoot were closed for a few days and yet more cafes/restaurants have opened up in Agdal. Mind you, some have been under construction and renovation for months and months. All is quiet as August is the holiday month, Moroccans living in Europe come back to visit, and those living in the city head to the beaches (a good place to avoid this month unless you love crowds).

Now as reality comes seeping back in, I have to consider the return to work. Time to get organised, focused, but I am sure I will fit in some time for reading and sorting out my travel memoirs and photographs.

Rabat's medina

Yesterday went to Rabat's medina so took my camera along. Only wanted to buy a couple of small purses to take away with me, got them but also a couple of other things. The medina in Rabat is a very relaxed affair, not the hustle and bustle or pressure of Marrakesh or Fez. In fact, often you almost have to chase the shopkeeper to get a price or wait and wait and wait . . . . It can actually be a gentle introduction for a first time visitor to Morocco, especially someone who is not used to bargaining. You can try bargaining there, sometimes I do, sometimes I don't; sometimes I have success, sometimes not. Treat it as fun or a game.
All the typical Moroccan products are available - lots of carpets, leather bags, wallets, shoes . . ., lamps of various descriptions, fabrics, wooden items, artwork, lots of jewellery (especially silver), rocks and fossils, antiques (they maybe old) and lots more. I can usually find something to buy even if I am not looking. Still have to find "the lampshade" though.

Here are some photos of Rabat's medina.

A Rabat Meandering

Since so many of my posts have related to books, I thought I'd keep up the theme. This afternoon after work, I went meandering in downtown Rabat with a friend to try and find the English bookshop. I have read about it on a website, and after checking, found it in the latest Lonely Planet. Happening to choose the hottest day so far this year, we were fortunate to find it just a minute or two after getting out of a taxi near the Rabat Train Station. Down a side street, the shop was packed with books in English, boxes on top of boxes with barely room to move. There was novels, books on Morocco, feminism, Islam, literature, textbooks, books of plays, language books and books of short stories. The majority of books were used copies, but who cares, although there were a number of new books that had been printed in Morocco. One of these was Edith Wharton's book "In Morocco", legally printed in Morocco and a bargain at 50D, which just happens to be the first book I need for next years bookgroup.
Although the selection is limited, the bookshop certainly provides an option for those who are desperate for something to read. Other books I saw but didn't buy included Walter Harris's "Morocco that Was", Peter Mayne's "A Year in Marrakesh" and "Valley of the Kasbahs" by Jeffery Taylor.
The hot weather was a good excuse to stop at nearby Cafe Lina for a drink - yes a nice healthy orange juice. It was a shame about the chocolate tart that also captured my eye, but enjoy it I did.

Home town tour

Yesterday I got to see my home town, Rabat, through the eyes of tourists, as I showed around a group of visitors here for a conference. First stop was Tour Hassan, often the only stop for tour groups as it was when I visited Morocco in 2000.

Tour Hassan, or Tower of Hassan is the 44-metre high uncompleted mosque minaret begun in the late 1100s. Even though it is nearly 20 metres short of the desired height, the details of its intricate carving can still be clearly seen today, 800 years later. Good views over the Rabat medina and kasbah, the BouRegreg river and the more traditional town of Sale on the other side can be had from the nearby viewpoints. The large courtyard in front of the minaret is dotted by the remains of the pillars from the unfinished mosque that was destroyed in 1755 by the earthquake that also destroyed Lisbon. Although home to pigeons today, the earthen walls still circle the complex but are starting to show signs of wear and tear in places.


At the opposite end of the courtyard to the minaret is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, in which the present king's father, Hassan II and grandfather, Mohammed V are buried. Located on one of the highest points in Rabat, the mausoleum is an example of exquisite craftmenship both inside and out. Inside the walls are covered in geometric tiled mosaics (zellij) made of individual tiny tiles that fit together perfectly, intricately carved wood and more than a splash of gold. It is an awe-inspiring place in which one can't help but feel reverence. Surrounding it are more examples of the craftmanship such as carved wooden doors and zellij fountains.

After lots of "ohs and ahs" and many photographs, it was off to the Kasbah Oudaias via the enormous decorated gate. Wandering through the narrow alleys bordered by white-washed houses trimmed in sky blue, we stopped at the Galerie d'Art Nouiga where there was a colourful display of Moroccan photographs. With no vehicles, steps worn down in the centre through repeated use, arched gates, and the blooming red geraniums, it is a pleasant walk and photographer's delight. Cafe Maure provided an ideal place to stop for a drink and a chat. It used to have wonderful views across the river to Sale until the developers moved in. Supposedly it will be an upmarket complex of hotel, shops and a marina in a few years. But I liked watching the small wooden boats criss-crossing the river. Adjoining the cafe are the Andulusian gardens, a peaceful oasis from the sometimes frenetic traffic outside. With roses, hibiscus and orange trees amongst the residents, it is a riot of colour at many times of the year.

Final stop was the medina for some last minute shopping. Rabat's medina is a very gentle introduction for first-time visitors to Rabat as the vendors are not at all pushy. In fact, on some occasions you have to wait around for them to arrive and give you a price. Not everyone will reduce their prices through bargaining, but if buying carpets, it is must. Besides carpets, the medina is a great place to buy silver jewelry (sold per 100 mg), lamps both metal and painted goat skin, wood products, leather goods including shoes and bedspreads and cushion covers. Rue de Consul, which during the French Protectorate was home to many consulates, is the centre of the tourist shopping medina. Head further afield and you find the local area of the medina with stalls selling clothing, dried fruit and nuts, olives, kitchenware, fruit and a less-than-appealing selection of butcher off-cuts such as sheep's heads and hooves!

To complete the Moroccan experience, evening saw us back in the medina to sample Moroccan food at Dinarjat, a restaurant found behind a tall, feature-less wall, after wending our way in through the narrow alleys. Set in a restored riad, there was the opportunity to sample the traditional Moroccan dishes such as pastilla, tagine and couscous. Even though I have lived in Rabat a while, it was the first time I had been to this restaurant and would have no hesitation in recommending it as an excellent place to try traditional Moroccan food in a very pleasant environment.