Windy, windy Essaouira

Well for a change from the heat of Marrakesh, I decided to head to the coast for a few days. First idea was Mirleft, then Agadir but I didn't expect to like it but ended up going back to Essaouira! And what a change it was - can you believe it I was cold, for the first time in months and months! It was so WINDY, at times I felt like I was being sand-blasted, even in the alleys of the medina. I even took long sleeves to wear but that wasn't enough. It certainly was a change. Plus the normally blue sea was a murky brown dotted by white-caps courtesy of the wind!!! The to top it off it is 44 degrees here in Marrakesh today with no sun.

Anyway I did have nice food including grilled fish, avacado and prawn salad (I can't get avocados in Bangladesh) and my favourite meat tagine with raisins and caramelised onions. Mind you, the food prices seemed cheaper than in Marrakesh. Stayed at the same place I stayed at in December - Hotel Les Maison Bleus, a comfortable and central place with lovely hosts, one of whom remembered me, even if he could not spell my name!

Of course I took lots of phots, here are a few people ones.

Off again: Essaouira

Just had a four day weekend, so what else could I do but go off exploring. Actually it was more of a weekend of R & R & R & R. Reading, writing, resting and relaxation, plus some exploring and good food. I headed south to the coastal town of Essaouira, which I had not visited since I was here in 2000 on holidays. The old part of town inside fortified walls is very attractively painted sky blue and white, although it looked like it could do with a good paint compared to the last time I was there.


However the biggest change was the increase in the number of tourists (seemed to be lots of French), more restaurants and cafes, lots more accommodation places and lots of souvenir shops and art galleries. Hard to believe that there was only a couple of accommodation places in the medina when I was there in 2000. Things certainly have changed. Rugs for sale, leather goods for sale, metalwork for sale plus lots of products made from the Tuya wood. I did have a look at the Argan oil products that were sold in a few shops. Argan oil is good for you both in cooking and for use on the skin. It comes from the nut of a fruit from the very slow-growing Argan tree that is found on the dry hillsides around Essaouira and Agadir. It has a nutty flavour when used in cooking, where I have used it in salad dressings.

What is there to do in Essaouira? Not a lot. Even less if shopping is not of interest. Wander the alleys and find interesting photographs, scaling the ramparts, which at sunset gives a nice view across the sea to the Ile de Mogador, visit the still active fishing harbour. Here the building of boats can be seen, or fishermen unloading their catch. The bright blue boats also make a great photo. Then some of the catch can be sampled at one of the fish stalls, where you pick your fish from the selection, it is then grilled for you and served with salad. A fresh tasty meal that doesn't cost much, depending on what you choose.

It is a great place to relax in, especially if you can find a nice hotel or riad with a sunny rooftop terrace. Most do have them. Where to stay? Avoid Riad Nakhla, as even though I had faxed my credit card details as requested and confirmed by booking, they said they hadn't received it and palmed me off to another place, Dar Marhaba. I had a nice room there, large and light, but a shored bathroom and the terrace was small. I somehow think it might be another 8 years before I go back again.