Monday 6 August 2007

Stepping Back in Time

No; I haven't found the way to travel in time but instead have been travelling through northern Romania. Time spent there is really like stepping back in time, especially watching the farmers at work. Here they use horse and carts for transport, still cut the grass with scythes and use rakes and pitchforks to turn it over for drying. Not a tractor in sight until I travelled further south. Such back-breaking hard work but maybe they will start to catch up with the present now they are in the EU.
Outside the Bar/Cafe in Salva

Also had some scenic, but very slow, train trips winding through the mountains, past small villages and plots of crops, over high bridges and through long tunnels. It is a good way to get a look at life in Romania outside the cities. The trains run on time but are not in good condition - no air conditioning so swelter on the hot days.
Winding through the mountains in north west Romania

Went to Sapinta to see the Merry Cemetery, distinguished by the colourful metre-high crosses that are at the top of all the graves. These crosses are painted in bright colours including pictures that typify the person's life and may also show how they died plus an inscription about their life, death and the people they leave behind. Only existing in this form since 1935, many people dies young and many died violent deaths such as getting shot while swimming across the river (it is also the border), getting run over by a tractor, hit by a taxi and struck by lightning while in bed. It was an interesting but bizarre place in the grounds of a church nut also full of tour groups who stop off as they pass by.
The Merry Cemetery

The Painted Monasteries near Suceava were the other highlight of my travel in the north. From the 1500s, these churches are not only decorated with pictures on the inside but also on the outside. Most pictures relate to stories in the bible or people from the bible or saints, but also include the siege of Constantinople. They also include local touched like including local musical instruments, dress, food etc. The outside ones are very colourful while the ones inside are much darker. Black from smoking candles has obscured those inside for many centuries but they are slowly being revealed at a cost of 700 euros per square metre. I went on a guided tour which was great as it meant I found out a lot more detail about the pictures and their history. Many of the monasteries till have nuns in the adjoining buildings today and they are the ones collecting the entrance fees and leading some groups around.

Sucevita Monastery

Detail of Voronet Monastery

2 comments:

Tracey said...

No photographs indeed! Don't think I haven't noticed. lol

Anonymous said...

Hey H! I'm looking forward to seeing the pics and following your journey by map once you've returned. There are places here in Maroc where people are bending to cut grass (cow feed) with scythes - we'll check it out some time! See you soon!