Thursday, 12 June 2008

Things are a changin' (in the mountains)

Things are a changin' in the High Atlas Mountains. Progress is arriving and is starting to change traditional Berber life. Mind you, they deserve a few little extras to make life easier, as the altitude, extremes of temperature, harsh terrain and long distances to roads and schools have prevented them progressing to the same degree as many other Moroccans. So what has happened:
1. Electricity has and still is arriving. The metal pole structures to hold up the wires are carried in on mules in pieces, then put together by hand. A couple of hours walking can take you from one village that has electricity to one that has to wait a little longer. The result: Once bare flat roof-tops are now dotted with satellite dishes so people can watch TV. Will this change the lifestyle? Probably but only time will tell.
Note the presence of many, many satellite dishes

2. The construction of more roads into the mountains. Traditionally Berbers have travelled the mountains on narrow, winding trails by foot or on mules. Now the roads, unsealed of course, enable motorbikes, 4 WDs and small trucks to travel from village to village, although not all villages have road links yet. The effect is seen most on the change in farming. The traditional crops of barley and corn are being replaced by cherry, apple and plum trees. Fruit from these trees is taken to markets in nearby towns and sold, and the money gained is then used to buy the staples such as flour, sugar from the same markets. It has become much easier to transport thee goods back to the villages with the presence of the roads.
Mules on the road

3. Not quite so recent but still in the last 5 years, an effort has been made to built schools so the Berber children can have access to an elementary/primary education. Up until this time, young children went to the Koranic school at the local mosque, while a few of the older ones may have walked long distances to get to school.

4. Tourism has been around for quite a while, but the numbers are increasing, especially since the budget airlines started flying into Marrakesh. This means the Berber people have a greater exposure to western ideas and culture. Today the access to TV is probably doing the same thing. On the other hand, the presence of tourists puts money into the local economy through staying at houses, hiring guides and mules and buying goods.

A Gite that tourists stay in

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